I'm swapping my 350 for a 700r4 and tried to hook up the column shift linkage and it's not working. I think the angles are all screwed up and it's binding up??
I'm not sure why I never had any issues with the th350 - I think the shifter location on the transmission is the same isn't it? Anyways looks like I have an alignment problem to me??
Is there any of the linkage or brackets I should be replacing with this swap to correct any of the geometry or is it suppose to be just a straight swap?
I'm guessing I should start with relocating the bracket on the frame to try and correct the angles a bit?
i don't know bud. looking at those pics i am thinking maybe whatever worked on the 350 is not going to work on the 700, there are some pivot points there that are destined to bind up. i am thinking maybe a cable set up or there are other kits available that seem reasonable priced. -http://www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/ACA-1800/10002/-1 or these guys seem to have a kit made for your app. -http://www.ididitinc.com/accessories-3/CableShiftLinkage_Acc-23
what i do know nick is that now is the time to get R done right. there will be guys on here that can have a look at that set up as it is, think about it and in an hour or 2 after cutting this pc to shorten and this pc to lengthen and it will work smoothly. too bad i am not one of them though. my one car, 200R and the truck, C6, that are non stock auto both have a cable, albeit floor shifts but i see ididitnc has one for column shift apps per tranny make and size. probably a one time fix for whatever tranny could end up in there sometime down the road with just a bracket change. nothing worse than going for a drive and having that on your mind all day wondering if this is the time it screws up when you should be thinking maybe a bigger carb or different gears. i also know that old school would be make what you got work but old school went out the window when the flatty was taken out of it.
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"if you are not the lead dog, the view is all the same"
Remember the 700r4 has an extra detent for an extra gear.. So for sure that linkage will not work.. Did that 700 have a shift road or a cable .. You need to be certain of the adjustment for the passing gear detent.. That needs to be set correct or your first road test will have you pulling it back out for burn't clutch's.. It is critical on that 700r4..
Some info here: http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/leadfoot/th350in.htm
I think I've got sorted out. It's working well now - just had to correct a few angles. It's clicking nicely into every position. P,R,N,D,3,2,1. I didn't think it would click into 1 but it does. I'm going to mark the positions on the transmission without the linkage attached and then just double check with the column and see if it's really lining up - but the clicking is nice and firm. But it feels right so far.
I think I've got sorted out. It's working well now - just had to correct a few angles. It's clicking nicely into every position. P,R,N,D,3,2,1. I didn't think it would click into 1 but it does. I'm going to mark the positions on the transmission without the linkage attached and then just double check with the column and see if it's really lining up - but the clicking is nice and firm. But it feels right so far.
good for you nick, here's hoping. something like this scenario can take some fun out of having a great day cruising or always having it on your noggin when/if. now it should be what gear ratio in the rear to go along with that extra o/d gear in the tranny and maybe just a little more carb. lol all this o/d auto tranny stuff was/is pretty much greek to me until the 220r in the chevelle. i remember shaking my head and asking what the hell do i need a T.V. cable for in my car and besides that i have a box full of it somewhere in the basement at home. live and learn they say, but they also say, you can't teach an old dog new tricks. u pick, lol.
p.s. mentioning rear gear ratio, what is in it for gears anyway? inquiring minds want to know. lol
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"if you are not the lead dog, the view is all the same"
I switched to 3.73's just before I took the truck off the road. Huge difference!! I think it was 2.59 or something like that in there originally. (Gm 10 bolt 7.5 rear end)
I switched to 3.73's just before I took the truck off the road. Huge difference!! I think it was 2.59 or something like that in there originally. (Gm 10 bolt 7.5 rear end)
coming from the mid 2's to the higher 3's would of woke it up no doubt. the 3;73's should work good with the o/d trans also as it will be idling on the highway and some juice around town. my guess is just under 2000 rpm at 60 mph depending on the o/d ratio and wheel size, guessing. both my o/d's with 3;90's are 20 to 2100 rpm range at 60. good set up nick, enjoy.
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"if you are not the lead dog, the view is all the same"
I've got everything back together, I'm getting close to being able to fire it up and do a pressure test on the transmission.
I have a couple quick questions.
1) Filling an empty trans for the first time - I put 6 liters so far - should I run it for a few seconds then add more? (I put probably 1/2 or 3/4 of a litre in the coverter before I installed it)
2) Setting the TV cable for the first time - I have a bowtie overdrive's kit for a 700r4 and edelbrock carb - it uses a factory style TV cable - if I understand correct - after I hook up the cable push the housing all the back (towards the rear) and pedal to the floor to ratchet itself forward and set the cable to the correct starting position and that's it?
After that fire it up and hopefully the pressures look ok!
I'm sure others have given you their answers to your questions if not here then elsewhere. So I'll stay away from that. BUT,,,, If it was mine for all the time it takes I would jack it up so the back tires are about an inch off the ground. A slim chance but still a chance it could start and be in gear. It could save a lot of aggravation.
Just pressure tested the transmission. I think everything is within specs. I see a million different ways to do the test, some just say at idle, my book says idle but 1000rpm, the kit I bought says to do a 1500rpm test etc... I did 3 tests, at idle (680ish), idle with TV cable unhooked, and Idle with TV cable pulled fully. I believe the tranmission is a 92 from an oldsmobile cutlass if I decoded right. Photo attached. (I have a corvette servo in it though)
IDLE P - 85 R - 120 N - 85 OD - 85 3 - 85 2 - 180 1 - 180
IDLE - NO TV P - 80 R - 115 N - 80 OD - 80 3 - 80 2 - 180 1 - 180
IDLE - FULL TV P - 160 R - 225 N - 160 OD - 160 3 - 160 2 - 180 1 - 180
I think these pressures are ok, next step road test, but looks like I'll have to wait a bit! lol
I'm planning a 200r4/350 combo for my truck and I'm learning lots from this...thanks for sharing. -Beans I may need some help in the summer getting my trans sorted, if you got the time. I got the beer, or whatever is your vice, at the ready :)
Having the guts to try to do DIY stuff is often the key I lack and then surprise myself when I can build something properly. Looks to me like you know what you are doing and it's workin just fine for ya!
Went for a quick test drive down my street. shifts are very firm. 1-2 is a kick in the ass. I'm kinda worried it's tooo firm?
I'm guessing that's the corvette servo??
1-2 happens at 2200rpm 2-3 happens at 2000rpm..
Does that sound about right?
I only drove a relatively light throttle.
Speedo is waaaaay off.
Gotta figure that out. Could be configuring to do in my dash module.
Did the full test drive procedure. Looks like I should be good to go! Only bad part is on the test drive someone garbage can blew out in front of my truck and hit my fender.... one hell of a scuff!
lol I have a brand new bumper in the garage. I need to fabricate some mounting brackets and change my roll pan to suit the bumper. It's on the to do list...
