Well 4 years in and we finely got to a point to here the beast roar for the first time!
Unfortunately I was so nervous I didn't have as much fun as I had hoped, that said it was a major mil stone for sure and relatively few problems for my first build.
my major problem was with my power rack leaking a bit of fluid, its a Heits Supper ride set up on my f-100 and when the truck was running and when I actually grabbed the wheel to see if it would turn effortlessly as I expected it to, it jerked out of my hand and was doing a dance which prompted me to shut the engine off immediately. Of course its been in long enough that I have misplaced the literature not that there was very much,
Any ideas what could be the problem, I'm sure the connections are not reversed but now I'm second guessing.
Or you are running a GM pump with out any shims to adjust the relief pressure to the box or rack..As I understand it you need to make some adjustments to the relief valve in the pump if you are running a gm pump with a Ford rack, find your instructions..rack
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Thank you guy's, I believe we were in too much of a hurry and I have confirmed the lines are indeed reversed, I'm in great hope it was not damaged but I believe it well could have, no oil on the floor this morning so I will reverse the lines and see what happens.
I also read about the GM/Ford combo and am hoping that Heits who sold me the kit mad the necessary changes and that's why they did not make mention of the pressures or supply the PRV. to lower the pressure.
Power steering seems to be working fine now that the lines have been switched, small leaks that I felt may have been caused by over pressure are actually Teflon o rings under the AN -6 fitting converters, do any of you know where I could get these type of O-rings? are they a popular item at an auto parts store?
the power rack was part of my Heits Supper ride IFS set up and I believe the rack is a mustang 2.
The link above will show the part I'm talking about.
Its a -906 O ring its not a standard cross section. I have no Idea why they would of used Teflon But Ill guarantee you have a 99% chance of damaging it trying to replace it. Unless you feel your power steering fluid is going to be over 300F id just use fluorocarbon (Viton) and be done with it. Hercules/ bulldog is on Saunders Rd in Barrie They have a warehouse full of orings . If you walk into the pickup door at the back they might give you a couple just to get you out of there . if that fails Pm me your address and Ill mail you a few.
I should have noted Teflon in a crush application like yours is a one shot deal put it in and leave it. if you take it out chances are it won't seal
Its a -906 O ring its not a standard cross section. I have no Idea why they would of used Teflon But Ill guarantee you have a 99% chance of damaging it trying to replace it. Unless you feel your power steering fluid is going to be over 300F id just use fluorocarbon (Viton) and be done with it. Hercules/ bulldog is on Saunders Rd in Barrie They have a warehouse full of orings . If you walk into the pickup door at the back they might give you a couple just to get you out of there . if that fails Pm me your address and Ill mail you a few.
I should have noted Teflon in a crush application like yours is a one shot deal put it in and leave it. if you take it out chances are it won't seal
Thank you Slim, is that the same O-Ring for the AC (Green)
I spoke to Paul Barber at Hortons (purchased the kit from them) he told me the aluminum crush washers do the sealing, but the casting does not appear to have a machined surface meant for sealing, perhaps I have not torqued them in enough as you can see there the washer has no marks on it indicating no contact? (both fittings you see no contact)
Should I use Loc tight thread sealer on the threads as well, I cant remember the # 545? Iits there Teflon pipe dope.
Thanks for all the great advice and, this site is so user friendly.
Just so we are on the same page an AN 6 to SAE / ORB connection will have a 9/16-18 tread on each end the hex should be 11/16 if its smaller thats the reason for the washer. Most just use the bottom of the hex to contain the oring . The female portion is drilled with a form tool to keep the chamfer and the tread in line. the seal is screwed into the chamfer so it takes the shape of a triangle with the widest section facing the bottom of the hex. oil under pressure travels up the 9/16 tread and try to extrude the oring past the hex. if every thing is done right and flat it can't because the seal is trapped. With a rubber compound the more pressure you apply the tighter the seal. With teflon its all over as soon as the fitting bottoms out. The washer at best contains the seal if the aluminium washer sealed the fitting why put a seal bellow it .Viton can be green sometimes brown depends on the manufacture .
Just so we are on the same page an AN 6 to SAE / ORB connection will have a 9/16-18 tread on each end the hex should be 11/16 if its smaller thats the reason for the washer. Most just use the bottom of the hex to contain the oring . The female portion is drilled with a form tool to keep the chamfer and the tread in line. the seal is screwed into the chamfer so it takes the shape of a triangle with the widest section facing the bottom of the hex. oil under pressure travels up the 9/16 tread and try to extrude the oring past the hex. if every thing is done right and flat it can't because the seal is trapped. With a rubber compound the more pressure you apply the tighter the seal. With teflon its all over as soon as the fitting bottoms out. The washer at best contains the seal if the aluminium washer sealed the fitting why put a seal bellow it .Viton can be green sometimes brown depends on the manufacture .
Thank you Slim, I believe I have the correct fittings, they are 11/16" ( I bought them from Hortons) I in one of my previous posts I had a link to the fittings I used, as to the failure I', not certain I installed them correctly now as I do not completely follow the requirements of the o-ring. On mine they just go into the bore and then the fitting screws in it seems in my situation the aluminum crush washer if not fully seating on the power steering casting, I'm thinking it was not tightened enough?
Am I able to use thread sealer? I did not, and feel that too may have been an issue, or is thread sealer a possible contaminant for power steering.
Sorry for all the questions, I have never worked on cars only motorcycles (no power steering)LOL
I put the fittings I was having issues with back in and torqued them to 45 lb/ft and all leaking has stopped, I suppose the crush washers we just not making a tight enough seal causing the leak, I figured I would try this before I went in search for new nylon washers, because I have very little time to invest at this time due to our upcoming move.
Thanks to all for the help and advice and thanky again Slim for all your input.