1938 Chev

slab · Brantford On, Hooked on Nova's

1938 Chev

parklane · St.Thomas On Rod-side member

You da man, Mike. Nice work!!

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

A little bit of progress. I think I have spent more time on the rear fenders than building the chassis.
Got the skins made for the running boards.

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

Taking a break from body, I went back at the parking brake. I going to do the usual loop both rear cables together to a pull from the front cable. Looping the right side to left past the driveshaft and exhaust was proving to be difficult. I decided to make a long right, short left cable arrangement to tie together on the left frame rail. Found a 2000 Ford f150 with drum brakes with a great little bracket that ties both cables together. The pedal assembly has a self adjuster built in so I grabbed it too. Picked up a cut to fit parking brake cable for the right side, had a new left cable already installed. A new parking brake pedal mount, a few tweaks to the pedal assembly, install, adjust and it works like a hot damn.

Junior · Race starter St.Thomas Drags Rod-side Aylmer On Member

Nice work there Lightspeed

junior

123pugsy · Tin basher Metal shaping guy

Right on Mike.

Can't wait to see it done in the spring....

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

Getting the running boards finished up and mounted to the fenders.

The scissor hoist I picked up has been absolutely invaluable.

Yes, the running boards warped like a pretzel when I welded them up. Spent about an hour straightening each of them.

I'm thinking about radiusing the rear fenders

toomuchjunk · Sep 26, 2018

I'm a little confused. (KIND OF NORMAL FOR ME)

Why would you radius the rear fenders after going to all the work to get the ride height lower?

Just asking

TMJ

58chev · Etobicoke On Rod-side Member

Nice work, Mike

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

toomuchjunk wrote:
I'm a little confused. (KIND OF NORMAL FOR ME)
Why would you radius the rear fenders after going to all the work to get the ride height lower?
Just asking
TMJ

The rear suspension in the picture is hanging all the way down. When it's at ride height the tire is kinda tucked up under. It's a 275/60/15 tire, which is 28" diameter. I'm thinking if I radius the fender it might give it a sleeker profile and follow the tire better.

I was trying to get a picture with the car at ride height supported by the hoist but the hoist was to tall to lower all the way down. The front wheel is hanging at ride height.

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

Back to the front of the car to finish a job I've been avoiding, hood hinge and latches. First thing was to finish welding the grill for the hinge mount.

I picked up some small single stage latches to mount at the rear. Redid the upper rad shell to body mounts and made some mounts for the latches. Made a tie bar for the hood side to side to stop it from flopping. When closed the bar locks in the latches. I still need to made a guide to ensure the hood comes down in the center.

Beans · Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

Nice!

admin · Dec 13, 2018

Really ,Really nice work Mike.. That will be one nice car.. Sweet!!!!!! smile

FLEET 51 · Portland On Rod-Side Member

HI MIKE : Very nice work ( as usual ) --- DON / FLEET 51

Davyj · Niagara Falls Rod-Side Member

Nice work, those small bear claws should work great, same ones I have on my hood

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

I wanted to be able to lock the car when I was away from it so I ordered some Autoloc door latches with locking feature and install pieces to make things go a bit quicker. Got the parts, started to assemble and saw this. The striker pin is crooked by about 10 degrees. Made in China crap.

A quick call back to Summit racing and and they are sending another pair of install pieces, N/C. Didn't even want to see the old ones or send them back. Just waiting for them to show up, I hope they are better.

I am putting the new latches in the same area as the originals. In order make them fit, first cut out a big section of door, hold up new latch, then say oh $hit. Window track and window in the way. In order make them fit and be able to make them removable, the window track has to be shortened, and I made a new lock lever to go around the window. I will have to make a bolt piece of window channel to replace it.

I'm not going to finish welding this in till I get all the window channel and outer door handle figured.

I had some sheet metal sheared and bent like this.

So I could shape it like this.

So it could hold these.

rochie · London On, ELTA Member

Mike, put the latch in the B pillar and the pin in the door!

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

rochie wrote:
Mike, put the latch in the B pillar and the pin in the door!

I thought about that several times. Then I either have to put door handles on the quarter panel or shave the door handles. Which are a PITA (IMHO) and not technically legal.

Marten · Kemptville Ont Carpenter/Renovations

Lightspeed Mike wrote:
rochie wrote:
Mike, put the latch in the B pillar and the pin in the door!
I thought about that several times. Then I either have to put door handles on the quarter panel or shave the door handles. Which are a PITA (IMHO) and not technically legal.

But door handles on the quarter panels would have been hilarious. That would be a head scratcher for sure.

parklane · St.Thomas On Rod-side member

It's the old one step forward, and two steps back routine. Been there.

wuga · Prince Edward County Ont

I was up at Mike's today. His execution is awesome and if you look closely, there are so many innovative ideas. The way he fixed the door latch problem was genius. This will be one sweet ride when it hits the street and will definitely be a signature car.

Warren

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

I had previously installed an EMS tail panel in the car. Unfortunately the gasket channel was just stamped, not finished to the level of the original. I had a piece bent up and formed it to fit, trimmed and welded in.

I wasn't happy with what I had did previously for the tail lights. I stumbled across these Cadillac tail lights at a flea market, After some careful calculations I found they would fit nicely, the contour just about matches perfectly. Measure, cut, trim and ready for welding in. I haven't welded them in yet because I can't seal or paint anything in the tail panel after I weld them in.

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

I decided get rid of the vent windows and go with one piece glass. The hard part is the door angles at the spot where the 2 pieces meet. So the inner door panel needs to be cut and straightened. Bracing cut out to make room for the glass. New window channel made and located in the front. Not knowing what it would take, I ended up cutting to much in the first door and had to weld it back up. 2nd door went smoother. While I was in the same area, it was a good time to install inner door handles. Found some rear ones from a Mazda Protege at the wreckers. The usual, cut, grind, bend, weld check, tweak and installed.

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

Working on the console, I was planning making one out of aluminum, but I really needed and accurate pattern to locate the shifter cover so I picked up some thin plywood. Transferred the pattern from cardboard and cut it out and started assembling. Fit good, I'm happy with the shape and it's really light. Now I'm thinking to fibreglass it together and call it done.

123pugsy · Tin basher Metal shaping guy

I was worried when you said you're using the Caddy lights. I usually see them installed vertically and they don't look so good.
They look great as you have them though.

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

123pugsy wrote:
I was worried when you said you're using the Caddy lights. I usually see them installed vertically and they don't look so good.
They look great as you have them though.

Thanks Pugsy, I struggled for a while with the tail lights. Had a few different ideas. I've seen them vertical too, and yeah I don't like them like that either.

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

Eliminating the vent windows ended up being way more involved than I first thought. I figured a few trims and tweaks. I ended up cutting out the whole inner door structure.

Rebuilding it gave me a good excuse to put my dimple die set to good use.

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

Needed to fill in the hole in the inner fender. I decided to make them out of aluminum.

Hole

Pattern

Filled, just will take a little trimming to complete.

Dave the Scot · member

wow, all this work makes my project look easy.

Love those rear lights.

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

Took it all apart so I could finish welding the frame and start some plumbing. Beginning with the exhaust.

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

Sand blasting and preparing for primer and paint.

Junior · Race starter St.Thomas Drags Rod-side Aylmer On Member

NICE work !!

junior

123pugsy · Tin basher Metal shaping guy

Good stuff.
Is that channel running down to the back for wires?

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

123pugsy wrote:
Good stuff.
Is that channel running down to the back for wires?

Fuel and EVAP lines for sure, quite probably run the fuel tank wiring down it too.

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

Primer

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

Paint

123pugsy · Tin basher Metal shaping guy

Nice. Fun times ahead assembling everything.

51 Styline · Niagara Falls Member

You do some really fine work. I have enjoyed following your build.

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

It was time to clean and paint the previously made parts to turn the frame into a chassis. I didn’t really want to buy one (cause I’m out of shop space) but I figured it was the best way to clean up the parts. So I sandblasting cabinet for sale. The easiest way to remove mill scale is to throw it in a bucket of vinegar overnight. Quick rinse, dry and a quick trip to the sandblasting cabinet, parts ready for primer and paint.

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

Had to redo the front upper shock mounts, some how I missed calculated top and bottom of the stroke. They had to go up an inch.

Installed the ride height sensors for the air ride suspension.

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

First time sitting on its wheels and rolled outside.

123pugsy · Tin basher Metal shaping guy

Good stuff Mike.
Congrats on the rolling chassis.

Junior · Race starter St.Thomas Drags Rod-side Aylmer On Member

Looking good Mike

junior

58chev · Etobicoke On Rod-side Member

Agreed, Looking good.

Matchless · Vineland On Rod-Side Member

X 3. I'm guessing it's part of your ventilation ducting but in that pic of the tailights it looks like you've got a Pulsjet hanging on the wall, lol

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

Matchless wrote:
X 3. I'm guessing it's part of your ventilation ducting but in that pic of the tailights it looks like you've got a Pulsjet hanging on the wall, lol

That's the fume extraction system for my CNC plasma cutter.

Cuddles · Keene Ontario member

I especially like the innovative rotisserie and the 'Tuck-o-matic' 9000. Would that be the early Russian diesel model ? Great stuff. I love learning from you guys.

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

Getting the engine clean, painted and ready for chassis.

Getting the air tank mounted and controls wired.

Lightspeed Mike · http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

A little more progress.

Getting the taillight buckets in. Putting a small reveal around them for a little more character.

123pugsy · Tin basher Metal shaping guy

Nice. You should be out cruising this summer.

There is no elevator to success — you have to take the stairs.