I have locked the build thread for Roboticist build, He is the only one to add to or make a comment on his build thread.... Please use this thread for all comments.. Please remember No crap..!!! Respect
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There is no elevator to success — you have to take the stairs.
A suggestion: you might try your local jobber on that. Ford used a lot of front and rear sump pans It was a common thing for ford you might even try Doorman parts. or Rock auto..
your challenges are just starting.. U should have this ready for Aug..
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There is no elevator to success — you have to take the stairs.
Running short on vacation and cash, so won't be ready for August this year.
Ordered a pan locally. Needed to order the pickup tube from Rockauto. Won't be here for a couple weeks, but lots of other stuff to do. Scrape and paint frame, finish body work, brakes, steering, etc.
Ok guys. Fun day, lots of hard work, but I need you Ford guys to strap on your thinking caps please.
I have a 1969 240. It's kinda worn out, but its all I have for the moment. I scored a 1998 shortbox short cab F150. I got rid of the electronic tranny and scored an unknown AOD trans.
I replaced the pan to find out some of my rod bearings click when I shake them by hand. Replaced the pan anyway with new pickup tube. I need to mock up my setup anyhow. Cut the weight off the 305 type flex plate and installed it. Took it back off and installed the inspection cover. Reinstalled the flex plate. Removed bolts which were too long, got new used bolts, reinstalled flex plate. Yea, been a while for my Ford stuff.
Got the trans to go on the engine with some difficulty. Lifted it into the frame to find the engine mounts are nowhere near right and the drive shaft won't go in.
I think I found some important information. Please see attached picture for information.
First, the transmission crossmember needs to go back by at least 2". Easy enough, there are holes already in the frame to unbolt and rebolt the crossmember.
Then there's the yoke problem. I have attached a screen capture from the Jegs web site. Note the difference in seal diameter. Does that mean the OD of the yoke won't fit the AOD trans?
Looks to me that you want the top yoke in the picture .. that's the one for the AOD, I think the difference is the wall thickness... I would not be too concerned with the drive shaft at this point.. They are not that expensive to have one made , you might check with a jobber or a truck shop to find a shop that makes drive shafts.. I would want to set that engine in and figure about where I need to have the mounts .. You may need to set the hood on the cab to figure where you can put the rad, you need to figure on how close the rad will be to the fan to make sure you have clearance enough, and clearance for your exhaust with the steering stuff..and you will want a couple or so inches between the engine and the firewall to run a dipstick tube and to get any of the bell bolts..not sure how far you got on determing where the engine will sit with the rad and cradle mocked up..I think you will need to cut and relocate or fabricate mounts..you need that pan and sump to be behind the Front crossmember..
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There is no elevator to success — you have to take the stairs.
Yup. Sounds like a plan. I am hoping to just swap the yoke on this shaft. Since I need new rear springs anyway, what if I shifted the axle back a couple inches with the correct springs? The body is not mounted yet, but I see your point about the firewall and pan alignment. The pan is really close to being in the right place now, just need new mounts. I will check the clearances before anything is mounted for sure.
I need to do more with it later. I am out of vacation time for now.
I have the wheels I want. The sorta fit, but I need better wheel adaptors. The driveline is connected and the frame is cleaned up and painted. The front bumper has been aquired. I just finished changing the rear springs. I am wiped for now. Lots to do!
U should have this ready for Aug..
