My project has been in my garage for about 8 years. Has been sitting for a while, some years went untouched.
Car can from Nova Scotia, had been stored in a garage since 1979. had a 30 over 350 block from 1970, but the internals are from a 327 Was used on the drag strip in PEI for a while.
I have picked up a few things for it along the way.
Nice set of fenders came from Oklahoma from a guy that had 3 barns full of car parts and full 6 ft rear quarter panels.
Seats from 2000 GMC Sierra Denali Ed. 1989 - 700r4 Transmission Rebuilt 4bbl Carb Rebuilt Steering Column
New parts include:
Tubular A-Arms 2" Drop Spindles 12" front disk brakes CPP500 Power Steering gear box Dual 8" booster, Power brakes Steering linkage Stabilizer Bar MSD Street Fighter HEI & Coil
Lots of work going there Frank.. On that steering wheel I have fixed a few of them and that one of yours, I would try to search out another one, that would be my first choice, if I couldn't find one reasonable.. when you get it ready for epoxy drill a couple holes where possible and some screws into the larger part and use some epoxy one the screws if you can get a couple in it help to reinforce that area..that is a huge crack so it be a good idea to reinforce it right at it's weakest point..it will not matter if they are drilled on an angle your trying to support the epoxy from breaking right at that joint.
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There is no elevator to success — you have to take the stairs.
i don't know if i mentioned this before or not frank but if you are looking for some certain part for that 58 i met these guys down in tyler texas some yrs ago. http://www.mjcruisers.com/ they are in the boonies down there and had hundreds of mostly 58 chev's scattered around on what use to be a farm. i bought a 66 el-camino and a couple of 4spds from them while on a visit down there with my sister in san antonio. unless something has changed with time they were pretty good to deal with.
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p.s. i had a black 58 impala back in the day, late 60's, and i put bullet tail light len's from a 59 caddy on it and they looked pretty horny. lol
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"if you are not the lead dog, the view is all the same"
good for you frank. it's usually right around this point when it is wired and bolted down that i "just" had to hear it fired up. call it incentive if you like, lol.
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"if you are not the lead dog, the view is all the same"
Rick, Nothing more than I'd like is to hear the engine once again
Still a bit to do to get to that point, but the ITCH is there again.
your closer than you think to hear it running from this point. that ITCH ain't gonna just go away on it's own buddy. lol manifolds or pipes, dist, carb, pump, can of gas if it's not plumbed yet and a battery sitting on the floor. i'd be willing to wager 1 beer that once it fires your incentive level will get a boost.
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"if you are not the lead dog, the view is all the same"
your closer than you think to hear it running from this point. that ITCH ain't gonna just go away on it's own buddy. lol manifolds or pipes, dist, carb, pump, can of gas if it's not plumbed yet and a battery sitting on the floor. i'd be willing to wager 1 beer that once it fires your incentive level will get a boost.
HUM...
Manifolds - Check - no pipes yet Dist - Check Carb - Check Pump - Check Can of Gas - Check Battery - Check
Need to break out the wire harness and figure out that spaghetti
Now to remember which box contains the starter
EDIT:::
Gee thanks Rick, got the wheels turning as I was out for my lunch time stroll.
Over the last couple of weekend, I fixed up the front drivers horn and removed a chunk of rebar that was welded on.
The rear of the frame needs a bit of persuasion to get it straight. I got the back end cut off. It will be easier to work out the kinks on my workbench.
I first added guides on both side, so when I put it back in place it will be where it needs to be. Using my body saw, I made my cuts, this way there is very little material that is missing that needs to be welded back in.
I have always liked working with metal, so this will put my skills to the challenge.
I have most of the dip/doddles/dents banged out. Just need to gather another weekend of time in the shop to get to the point of, I'm liking the way it looks.
Trying to find a decent dolly design that will allow me to roll out the original chassis.
Just stuck on tubing size, don't need to over engineer it but something that will support the body.
I have seen different variants, some using 1.5" square tubing up to 2", ranging from 1/8" to 3/16" wall thickness.
When I have some time I'll start a thread asking for advice on a dolly build.
I got most of the front suspension back on and engine/trans mounted.
Now to route the new gas line and rear brakes, before dropping the body back down.