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Ontario Rodding Community -> Rod-Tech-Talk -> distributor removal/install
Post Info TOPIC: distributor removal/install
Cuddles


Keene Ontario member

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distributor removal/install
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4HlFZkkxiI

Above is the site for a video instructing how to remove and install a distributor which appears to be made for a novice like myself.  I find it very helpful in understanding why, not just learning what to do.  However, at 4 minutes into the video, they state that the engine on which they are demonstrating is a Chev and if you are working on a Ford, things are different.  After removing the distributor hold down clamp and lifting the distributor, the oil pump drive shaft will stick to the distributor and if it falls in the process, you might have to fish it out with a magnet.  That's all they tell us.  Once it's out, how do I get it back in ? And a second issue arises when I finally get to removing the manifold.  In a video by two guys calling their site Autorestomod, two guys warn that the front and rear intake bolts can seize so be careful removing them.  Careful ?  Like, if I pull too hard the bolts will break off in the block ?  So, how hard is too hard ?  What are my options if the bolts put up a fight ?  



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54vicky


Veteran Member Oakville On

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without going through your bio it would help to know which ford engine.they made more than one

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123pugsy


Tin basher Metal shaping guy

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I find more bolts break by pulling the wrench slowly, rather than giving them a fast "crack/snap" to break them free.
Usually though, when they are seized, they will break.

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PUGSY
FLEET 51


Portland On Rod-Side Member

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A little tip I was given , if you are really worried about it breaking , is to turn your impact gun to it's lowest setting , then let it " rattle " on the offending bolt , often cracking it loose , without shearing it off -- Hope this helps -- LATER -- DON/Fleet 51

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rochie


London On, ELTA Member

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Best advice is to tighten the bolt a fraction then loosen it. It'll break the tension on the oxidation and allow you to remove the bolt.

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Matchless


Vineland On Rod-Side Member

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I've found giving the bolt head a good rap with a ball-peen before loosening will often help.

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123pugsy


Tin basher Metal shaping guy

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A few good tips here.
First thing, give a good rap:

 

 

Matchless wrote:

I've found giving the bolt head a good rap with a ball-peen before loosening will often help.

 

 

Second thing, give a wee tighten:

 

 

rochie wrote:

Best advice is to tighten the bolt a fraction then loosen it. It'll break the tension on the oxidation and allow you to remove the bolt.

 

 

Third thing, "crack" em loose:

 

FLEET 51 wrote:

A little tip I was given , if you are really worried about it breaking , is to turn your impact gun to it's lowest setting , then let it " rattle " on the offending bolt , often cracking it loose , without shearing it off -- Hope this helps -- LATER -- DON/Fleet 51

 

 

If you don't have an impact, use your longest ratchet handle and give em a crack:
123pugsy wrote:

I find more bolts break by pulling the wrench slowly, rather than giving them a fast "crack/snap" to break them free.
Usually though, when they are seized, they will break.

 

If all of these tips don't help, there are ways to remove a broken bolt. Just be sure to post if you break one.



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Cuddles


Keene Ontario member

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I sure am fortunate to have you people guiding me because the covid virus certainly leaves a novice alone in the garage. Thank you all. I write all your instructions and refer to them in the garage so you guys really help. Thank you all.

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Cuddles


Keene Ontario member

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I got all the bolts out no problem. One was even loose. But I failed to notice until cleaning them that 4 of the 12 bolts differ from the rest. 4 bolts have no shank: they are threaded from end to end apart from the bolt head. Should I replace them with bolts that have a shank or are fully threaded bolts required for 4 particular holes ? I'm guessing it would be the four corners but I have no idea. Also, some washers are paper thin and some are missing so I am guessing that is because of galvanic corrosion. Should I put some sort of silicone on the washers ? Thank you in advance.

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