Any of you members out there with a Nova/Camaro/Chevelle front clip grafted to your rod with drum brakes,this is the most cost effective (read Cheap !) upgrade possible and your using GM stuff.
junior
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Government is a broker in pillage, and every election is sort of an advance auction sale of stolen goods. HL Mencken. 1919.
"If you want a vision of the future, imagine a boot stamping on a human face - forever." George Orwell 1984
I'm watching close because I have to do this same swap on my 67 Sedan. Too bad you weren't closer, I could mill that pin down for you. Keep post'n pics. The most popular question when I was selling my wagon was "does it have disc brakes?"
I would to see a picture of that bolt when you have it at the size you want it.. I am waiting to do mine .. and a list of part numbers for the rotors I am guessing they use the D-52 pads.. looking good John.. Nice clean looking car..
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There is no elevator to success — you have to take the stairs.
Will show a picture of that when modified. Yes, D 52 pads, did not want Metric stuff from an S truck /G body. I will include a list of parts and part numbers I used.
My donors (spindles/shields/cal. brackets) are '69-'72 Nova.
junior
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Government is a broker in pillage, and every election is sort of an advance auction sale of stolen goods. HL Mencken. 1919.
"If you want a vision of the future, imagine a boot stamping on a human face - forever." George Orwell 1984
In order to shorten the top bolt (the same one used w/drum brakes where the springs anchor) I had to build this bench with vise and sections of RR track and a concrete block underneath. This will be my "Bangin'- Poundin'- Bench". This is the amount cut off the top bolt.
The head of the top bolt had to be reduced in thickness by almost 1/2. Trial assembly to make certain the rotor did not touch bolt head and away we go!
Now the other side, part numbers to follow.This is what I bought, from/for '69-72 Nova->
Donor rotors,calipers,spindles,cal.brackets&dust shields Plus another set of only spindles,cal.brackets&dust shields. These are spoken for after this swap.
The donor calipers were toast,so re built were needed,the rotors were New,just need a clean up. Seals,bearings are all the same.
KAP 5514 rotors,BHA 36672 flex hoses (x2) and 18-4035& 18-4036 reman calipers plus D52 pads.
junior
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Government is a broker in pillage, and every election is sort of an advance auction sale of stolen goods. HL Mencken. 1919.
"If you want a vision of the future, imagine a boot stamping on a human face - forever." George Orwell 1984
Looks great John: Couple questions.. The part you cut off the spindle.. do you have a side pic, I am not quite sure where this is from.. And do you think those brackets holding your rail-track anvils will be sufficient.. just thinking of your toes..
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There is no elevator to success — you have to take the stairs.
Those will fall off for sure Chuck,lol. The part that's cut off is from the spindle where the top bolt goes in,you remove no threads, only casting. The disc spindle's are shorter in this spot,that's all. 1st is what I cut off ---- next is the cut off piece sitting on a disc spindle--- then the disc spindle alone.
They look so pretty .. I am looking forward to getting mine done.. You done did a nice job of that John.. Have you brake tested them yet? Thanks for the list of part numbers for the calipers and hoses.. The sun is shining here but it's still pretty damn cold here.. I will get the stuff over the next week or so if that's OK..
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There is no elevator to success — you have to take the stairs.
good job jr, i wish i had the ambition to do the fronts on the coronet. they say necessity is the start of most inventions and i like that vise/anvil bench you put together. -
good one and like chuck says make sure you have your steel toed footwear on. 3 thumbs up from the irish judge, lol.
Getting some unwanted brake drag eh!!!.. is it doing all the time or gets worse as the brakes heat up..does it lock the wheels right up.. do you have a porportioning valve or some residual valves on the rear brake line.. Should have 2psi valves on the rear I think..
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There is no elevator to success — you have to take the stairs.
Make sure the rod is dead straight into the M/C. Sometimes when you change the M/C, the alignment changes slightly not allowing the rod to retract completely and thereby keeping the rear brakes slightly applied or eventually locked up.
Thanks Warren. My '66 Acadian had the same master/manual brake set up when I bought it- but I never had my head under the dash to see what rod was used
I going to shorten it a Max.of .375 since it is adjustable it's just more of me upside down in the car 'getting it right'.
Nice job. On our 71 Nova I found an SS and took all the spindles off of it when I discovered the upper mount issue, including the hood and the 12 bolt. Are there two holes on the pedal arm, when I went to power brakes on my 57 I had to drill another hole to change the lever effect.
John: I want to get up to pick up those spindles as soon as I can and bring the Power-glide.. I just been busy as heck with outside yard work.. I just can't get caught up.. and have trouble with my knees and ankles.. Had my ankles injected yesterday, So they should feel better in a day or two.. Just ordered some Tommy Copper knee supports to see if they give me some relief so I can stand on my legs for more than a couple hrs. Right now my car is not safe to drive ,, I am metal to metal on my brakes and pretty shamed for a professional wrench who knows better.. I have all the parts in from Rock-Auto. I will get it done over the next couple days.. then see about getting up... yours looks great.. good work my friend.. thanks for posting all the information.. It is helpful to many others I am sure.. me included.. Now can you stop the grass from growing for a couple weeks till I get the cars and mowers serviced.. Please!!!
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There is no elevator to success — you have to take the stairs.