I am planning on running about 60' of 6ga wire underground to my garage. Looking at having 1-1/2" conduit at both ends and then running the wire out the house underground and then into the garage. The other option is to run conduit all the way and install loose wires into it.
I'll have a look at my wire spool at new shop, but 6 gauge sure seems heavy. Even a 10 is hard to 'bend' and twist. The 'U' stands for underground rated so in theory, you don't have to use a tube but I just think it's safer that way.
I'm not sure what you mean by 'loose' wire. The umdw already has the wires encased in a thick plastic.
Almost sounds like you're thinking of using Pole line wire from house to shop ?
Also, there are requirements for your trench that I'll mention when I check my feed line size.
Underground should be 18" or more deep.
Buried in sand with a plank over and yellow warning tape.
It's been a while since I did anything like this.
It may have to be 3' below surface.
I dunno....
For TO area, 20"-24" deep or deeper with a trace wire end to end.
I have a smaller 40AMP to my shop and ran 8GA ( as required by the ESA ) , I would not run 10GA for 60AMP
Stick to 6GA, don't forget that distance will play a part in what size wire also.
Hydro One, my Sparky guy and the Hydro Inspectors are over at the other place right now replacing the main pole line from transformer and new panel in the house.
I am also in the process of having the triplex relocated, new pole moved to 50 from one side of the property to the other as the current triplex runs diagonally across to a pole near the cottage, branching off and feeding the next door neighbors place.
I got lucky as the existing street pole is 65 years old and I only have to pay 25% of the relocation cost.
Must use the anti corrosion grease to join the aluminum to the copper where they eventually connect!
Hardware store even keeps it in stock in the electrical section.
For TO area, 20"-24" deep or deeper with a trace wire end to end.
I have a smaller 40AMP to my shop and ran 8GA ( as required by the ESA ) , I would not run 10GA for 60AMP Stick to 6GA, don't forget that distance will play a part in what size wire also.
My shop was built 9 years ago.
i am with frank on the 6ga as you really only want to do this the one time. i did a little snoop and that would add about a 100.00 to the 60ft. because of the rock i would run it inside a 1 1/4" poly water pipe, no connections, 75.00 X 100ft roll at the depot. i would also run a 3/4" poly with it, no connections, maybe 2 of them and all with pull wires. you never know 2-3yrs from now or a future buyer. one 3/4" for soft wiring, alarm-telephone-cable for a tv, etc. and one for possible water out there for the warmer months. 3/4" X 100ft roll at the depot, 17.00 each. it's easy to blow the water line out for the winter with an air pig.
i remember some years ago a couple of us helped a bud out doing the same thing in rock but it was maybe 15 to 20ft and he put sand top and bottom of the 2 pipes he used, no water, but i don't recall if the sand was code or a personal choice. if i had to guess the hole was 2 to 2.5 ft depth.
. and again just me, i see mention of aluminum wire being used for the underground and it is probably doable properly and up to code but any hint of aluminum wire anywhere to an insurance company puts their ears up the couple of times i have run into it.
--is the whole 60ft distance in rock henry? you are in the hard stuff up there not flaky limestone or the odd big granite boulder.
__________________
"if you are not the lead dog, the view is all the same"
Thanks all. Will look into running poly pipe as it is very flexible. The house is built on rock, but I have not dug down on the route I will be taking as of yet.
We have to move the walking path over about 5 ft and then dig the trench to see.
They just built a house across the way from me and they ended up having to build the 2 story with the basement on grade.
Here is the inside of the pnl I want to use. Could someone tell me how to or about bonding/ non bonding from this pic. Also here is a crappy pic of the under cottage.
because of the rock i would run it inside a 1 1/4" poly water pipe, no connections, 75.00 X 100ft roll at the depot. i would also run a 3/4" poly with it, no connections, maybe 2 of them and all with pull wires. you never know 2-3yrs from now or a future buyer. one 3/4" for soft wiring, alarm-telephone-cable for a tv, etc. and one for possible water out there for the warmer months. 3/4" X 100ft roll at the depot, 17.00 each. it's easy to blow the water line out for the winter with an air pig.
i remember some years ago a couple of us helped a bud out doing the same thing in rock but it was maybe 15 to 20ft and he put sand top and bottom of the 2 pipes he used, no water, but i don't recall if the sand was code or a personal choice. if i had to guess the hole was 2 to 2.5 ft depth.
. and again just me, i see mention of aluminum wire being used for the underground and it is probably doable properly and up to code but any hint of aluminum wire anywhere to an insurance company puts their ears up the couple of times i have run into it.
--is the whole 60ft distance in rock henry? you are in the hard stuff up there not flaky limestone or the odd big granite boulder.
On the ESA site we can use polyethylene pipe that is CSA Standard B 137.1. I went on HDepot's web site but they do not list that info in the description. Will have to drop in and see what they have.
In looking at the ESA requirements for space around a breaker pnl it only says 1M from the front. I want to put the pnl on the side wall either between the man door and a window or the window and the corner. Does anyone have the dimensions required by the ESA? good day.
In looking at the ESA requirements for space around a breaker pnl it only says 1M from the front. I want to put the pnl on the side wall either between the man door and a window or the window and the corner. Does anyone have the dimensions required by the ESA? good day.
i would think you are good to go which ever of those 2 spots you choose. that 1M to the front would be taken as a clear 3ft unobstructed space in front of the panel where ever you choose to put it. mine is in a corner that when the man door is fully open it could probably touch the panel but when closed the space is accessible. i would think it means it can't be put in a cubby hole somewhere that doesn't have a 1m clear opening directly in front of the panel. makes sense.
just catching up on this thread henry and i see you got a break on the hydro pole, good for you. did they give you an estimate for the job? just curious is all, i had a new pole put in and they put a new transformer on it but it was a direct replacement not a move. 22-2300.00 if i remember right.
__________________
"if you are not the lead dog, the view is all the same"
You have it correct Henry, The idea is to be able to work on the panel comfortably and jump back if something bad happens. They like to have some elbow room on each side so keep it away for the side walls at least a bit.