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Post Info TOPIC: 29 Roadster


Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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29 Roadster
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I picked up a new project. (I won't start working on it until I finish up a few things I'm doing to the truck right now - but this has me motivated to keep working on my truck and get it finished up!)

 

29 Model A Roadster. It was a restoration in progress and apparently the guy passed away. It's actually pretty far along. It appears as thought it's going to take very little to get it up and running and on the the road. No idea when I'll be able to paint it or get a top. Seats I'll probably just try and do something myself for now. I need a windhshield and have to do some work on the doors. A little wiring to do. The Fuel tank looks as though it was leaking so that's going to be the first thing I work on.

The goal for it right now is just finish putting it together, make it work and drive it.

 

Special thanks for 33Guy for helping me out with it!

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"Fatchuk" Rod-side member Board administration & clean up guy

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Good on You Beans.. looks sweet.. I have the same car.... I like the idea of running and driving it stock.. looks really nice underneath new floor pans.. Lots of luck with it. You could not have a better friend than Joe on that car.. Good guy for helping you get it ..



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Haliburton Ont Member

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Very nice. Best of luck with your project, I like your idea of just getting it running. Like it a lot.

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Clarington Ont

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Congrats Beans, nice find and cool project.

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Tin basher Metal shaping guy

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Nice car Nick.

Mags and an LS1 and it will be even better.





JK....

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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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lol.. thanks.. I might have to attend some of your classes next time rough though. gotta reskin those doors!

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Tin basher Metal shaping guy

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Beans wrote:

lol.. thanks.. I might have to attend some of your classes next time rough though. gotta reskin those doors!


 Cool.

Nice to have another newb to pick on. April is not far off....



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member

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Very nice, you have a good start on it. I like the idea of getting it running and driving before you go ahead and finish the restoration.
Good luck with it and look forward to seeing a few more pictures as you go.

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Toronto On Member

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That looks like a great start and a good find.

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Brantford On, Hooked on Nova's

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Nice looking project.



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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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Thanks guys

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Vienna ON Rod-Side Member Classic plane Restorations

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Beauty project,..great looking "A" Model,....someone has definitely spent some time on it. I have a thing for Model A's,..can't get them out of my system, actually been giving a lot of thought to building up another 2 door coach. Good luck with your project,.you can't go wrong on that little gem.

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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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So I knew there was most likely a leak in the fuel tank when I got the car. I pulled the fuel tank off last night. Can't really see where it's leaking from but you can see where it's leaving the tank. Gotta figure out how to solve this... first though I'm gonna pour something in there and make sure it has or hasn't been fixed already.  This is the bottom front drivers side corner.

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Mississauga On Rod-side Member Ford guy

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Try 12 year old scotch 



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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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A few odds and ends arrived today for the Roadster. Needed some latches and a handle for the rumble seat, brakelight switch, stuff for the headlights etc.. And also this cool little air cleaner. I really like the look of it!

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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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Went to Ancaster swap meet on the weekend and scored some bit and pieces I needed for the car. Got a rear view mirror.

One of my future plans for the car is to build a homemade intake/exhaust header. It'll be dual updraft carbs and a traditional torque tube header (it'll be baffled). Not anyhting I'm starting anytime soon as priority is just to get the car up and running - but I got a spare Zenith carb from Joe and found some bits and pieces to rebuild the carb at the swap meet. Saved a lot of money on shipping if I had to order from Macs or Snyders! $1 for gasket kit, $7 for the venturi sleeve, I got exhaust/intake gasket for $10. I also needed a speedo cable - the one I had was damaged and got a new one at Ancaster too!

My speedo moves, it isn't seized but it maybe doens't move well yet. Joe suggested I try warming up the speedo to see if it loosens up the grease inside and see if it spins easier. So I'll try that before I open up the speedo.

Car will be trailered to my house this week so I can finally get moving on it!

Here's some photos of homemade intake/exhaust setups.

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"Fatchuk" Rod-side member Board administration & clean up guy

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Nick:  Beautiful looking, super job you are doing a super job on your roadster.. The gas leak you could pour some varsol into the tank and try to so with the tank in a position that it will not take much varsol to find it.. Also you check around Oshawa they may be able to do a liner in it.. Lotsa of possibly rad shops do that and then you don't have to worry about it leaking any more.. make sure your shut on the tank does not leak too.. Good luck my friend, Looks just super to me.. I wish I could finish my roadster but my days are slipping away pretty fast these days now.. But you will enjoy that roadster.. I am quite proud of you with your project and several other things you have posted over the years, Your an inspiration to many on here. I am glad your a member of this forum ..And your a great guy.. You have done me several favors.. Not to say your logo design for this forum.. Was great. Big Thank you for that I wish you the best of luck with getting that puppy on the road

Chuk. 



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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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Did you see the new Canadian Hotrods Magazine Chuck? You're famous now.

ps - the gas tank was checked for leaks a few times - did it myself with rubbing alcohol and then brouhgt it to Dan's and we checked again there with wiper fluid. Both times we lightly pressurized the tank. If it was leaking it's not right now.

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"Fatchuk" Rod-side member Board administration & clean up guy

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Hey Beans: smile   thanks for that much appreciated..  keep up the good work..biggrin



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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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33Guy stopped in today to help me fire it up.
We set the timing and points and it fired right up! Needs cap and rotor. It's arcing through the cap, exhaust is leaking where it joins the header, gasket is likely not there. The carb halves weren't tight, we noticed after fuel started pouring out the middle of the carb, it has a miss. Needs lots of little things but pretty happy it fired right up!!



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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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Tune-up today, new points, condenser, rotor, cap, plugs and wires.
I found a few things I didn't like when I was changing the points. The little block that holds the screw to adjust the gap in the points wasn't actually closing tight enough to hold the screw in place - loose enough coulda just wiggled and moved when the motor was running so had to fix that. You could see previously someone just kept trying to tight the screw right into the block. Also the black wire that connects the condenser to the points (apparently a common place to have issues) had a big chunky terminal that was very close to the plate. Someone had added an extra washer - I dunno or sure but I think it shorts the circuit if it contacts the rivets on the plate so I added some heat shrink to cover it. The new points shaft had a few threads less so couldn't keep the extra washer.

Then more practice setting the timing and gaps again.

 

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Kemptville Ont Carpenter/Renovations

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Ha Beans, cool to watch your progress. Nice to see the car fire up. All old school tech for sure, good you know something about that stuff.

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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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I don't really know anything about it, learning as I go. Lol. Lots of YouTube video watching and reading, asking questions on Facebook and forums.! I didn't really understand how points worked until about a month ago. There's really good service manuals available for these cars too.

 

ps- really enjoying followng your box build. 



-- Edited by Beans on Sunday 2nd of April 2017 09:58:33 AM

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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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Fired it up again today after the tuneup. I think it sounds much better. Starts great and I think the miss is gone.. (I really don't have an ear for this yet - does it sound like it's gone?) I grounded out each plug and each one you could it change. Exhaust/Intake gasket is leaking though - so probably gonna have to redo that.

 

Wired up the headlights - not using the aftermarket stuff. it's crap. I just wired up bullet connectors on the new pigtails and the harness. One of the conduit tubes blew apart anyways just trying to feed the wire harness through it so forget those things.

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Komoka On, Board recruiter, Good will embassador Rod-side Member

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Well Nick sorry to say sounds to me like it's only running on 4 cylinders.
biggrinbiggrinbiggrin



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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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toomuchjunk wrote:

Well Nick sorry to say sounds to me like it's only running on 4 cylinders.
biggrinbiggrinbiggrin


 Lol



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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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I've got the light switch working but I'm confused by the horn. (horn works great on the bench)

I have two wires off the harness for the horn - yellow off the relay on the generator which is always hot I believe and yellow/blue which is connected to the horn button.

But the horn itself grounds to the chassis when you bolt it on. Can't work that way right? I'd have constant power to the horn and the button wire would be pointless.

Is the horn suppose to be isolated from the chassis? If so how was that done? If it's suppose to be ground to the chassis - how I wire it?

wiring-diagramcolor2sm.jpegIMG_9338.JPGIMG_9336.JPG



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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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I think I may have answered my question already.... Had another look at it and noticed one of the insulating washer is missing. I'm pretty sure this is supposed to be here to keep everything isolated and it being missing would cause the body of the horn to ground to the chassis... is that correct? You can see it present on one side and missing from the other.

IMG_9339.JPGIMG_9340.JPG



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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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I'm keeping this somewhat original - as best I can anyways. There's things I'm changing a bit that I don't like about some of the wiring. I don't like the twist lock conduit stuff - maybe original was better but aftermarket is absolute garbage. So made all my own connections it's all hidden anyways. I didn't like the way the stock bullets connect into the horn so I soldered wires into the terminals and made my won connections there too. I have an almost finished Model A - so that plan is to finish it first - get to know what it's like to have a maintain a model A - then I can start to see things I like and don't like and want to change about it. I want this car to be a period correct'ish prewar style banger.

I have a few questions:

1) What's the reason for converting to negative ground?
(What's the benefit)
(what's the downside for not converting?)

2) What's wrong with the 6V system that I should convert it to 12V and ditch the generator?

3) I would like to add a fuse block - but not too modern looking - or it has to be hidden if it is.
Can I stay positive ground and add a fuse block, or do I have to switch to negative ground?

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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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IMG_9374.JPG

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Some temporary upholstery. Not sure what the long term plan will be just yet but this will get me on the road for now.

 

 

 



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Oshawa Ont member

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This is looking cool...sorry I can't help with your questions, though. I like the old school vibe of the temp upholstery.

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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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thanks man!

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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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Starting working on another repair that needs to be done. The top of the cowl post is really messed up. Drivers side is scary looking and welds are cracked. It's all coming out and being redone. I tried bashing some 16g into the right shape last night. I don't really have much in the way of metal shaping tools. I think it's fitting pretty good so far. Hopefully I can get it to fit well once it's on the car.

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Kemptville Ont Carpenter/Renovations

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Looks like you don't need many tools. Doing well with what you have.

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Tin basher Metal shaping guy

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Nice hammer forming Nick.

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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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Thanks guys!

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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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My first drive!! Wow its an experience driven one of these! I can upshift nice and smooth But can't get a down shift just yet. But it drives great, actually stops pretty good too!



-- Edited by Beans on Sunday 14th of May 2017 08:54:42 PM

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Tin basher Metal shaping guy

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That's really cool Nick.

Congrats.

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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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Thanks Pugsy

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Craighurst On Member

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Very cool Beans, you think it will get to the Jelopy Jam Up this summer?

Nice work!

Angelo
V2Addict

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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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I'm not sure if I'll bring it or not. Gotta bring camping gear and a bunch of stuff so might bring the truck. Haven't decided also haven't driven it enough to know if I can drive it there.

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Craighurst On Member

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I hear you, my truck is still not ready for a drive, I'm hoping for this summer being a shake down year, some close by cruse nights etc.

I'm getting real excited to finally drive it.

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Oshawa Ont member

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So cool! I want a roadster someday. I loved the metal forming you did. I was looking at that wondering where I would even start, if I had to make a curved piece like that.

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Hydraulic Service Dundas On

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Beans wrote:

 

My first drive!! Wow its an experience driven one of these! I can upshift nice and smooth But can't get a down shift just yet. But it drives great, actually stops pretty good too!

 



-- Edited by Beans on Sunday 14th of May 2017 08:54:42 PM


With no syncro's you will need to double clutch. Its not just you  it will really show trying to down shift 



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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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Slim wrote:
Beans wrote:

 

My first drive!! Wow its an experience driven one of these! I can upshift nice and smooth But can't get a down shift just yet. But it drives great, actually stops pretty good too!

 



-- Edited by Beans on Sunday 14th of May 2017 08:54:42 PM


With no syncro's you will need to double clutch. Its not just you  it will really show trying to down shift 


 THe downshift is what I need to learn. I can't upshift pretty quietly for the most part. For some reason it shifts smoother NOT double clutching on the 1-2. Maybe just the speed I'm shifting at (Driving super slow). But for now if im in third and need second I'm gonna have to pull over and start over. lol



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Hydraulic Service Dundas On

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Are you backing off the Rpm at the same time ? Do you feel like the wizard behind the curtain ?



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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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Slim wrote:

Are you backing off the Rpm at the same time ? Do you feel like the wizard behind the curtain ?


As per usual I have some difficulty following/relating to some of your comments. lol Still appreciated, as obscure as they may be.

Shifting 1-2 - was just getting moving and almost right away slipping into second nice and smooth.

Occasionally running up a little higher in the RPMs before shifting and double clutching it didn't wanna up shift so smoothly.

Trying a 3-2 downshift - I just wasn't able to get the RPMs right to get back into 2.

I'm reading that the gear oil could really change how it shifts too. I have 90w140 with about 25-30% STP oil additive. Some ppl run as high as 50%+.

Thickest I could find without ordering a bucket or gear oil. (Might see if we have something at work I could sneak out... we might have thicker stuff and I only need a small amount)

 



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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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Something I've been trying to work out is the gear box oil.

There's sooo much arguing and discussion online on the forums about this topic. The model A stores like Mac's sell a 'replacement' 600w oil (it's not 600 weight... it's apprently somewhere near 240ish).

A lot of people run 140w with STP oil treatment. Again differences over the % of each. There's apprenly a few comparable ones out there near 240w. It's not easy to find anything locally without ordering a giant bucket! I need 700ml approx...
So what I've tried so far...

85w140 w/ STP 50/50 - worked quite well, upshifted nicely but did not want to double clutch. Just wanted a normal shift. But Foamed a lot
85w140 - way to light and very noticeble. Even just going from R back into 1 you'd have to wait before you can shift.
220w (borrowed some gear oil from work that we use in the extruders) - Shifts nice but wants to double clutch. If you double clutch it's quite smooth.

I think I would like to find something around 240 or slightly thicker to try and see if it's just right if I found some that didn't come in a drum....

Still trying to get a downshift from 3-2. Not easy and quite often find myself stuck in no gears when I don't get back down to 2.

Overall though - I'm absolutely loving this thing! It stops so much better than I was expecting too. I did spend quite some time setting up the brakes though. It's certainly not like a modern vehicle but it's not nearly as scary to stop as I was led to beleive or was expecting.

It's also not a slug - it moves along quite well for 40hp!



-- Edited by Beans on Monday 19th of June 2017 05:26:56 PM

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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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I'm using a 220 gear oil I borrowed from work and it's shifting quite well now! I have to double clutch with this oil though. I also finally got the hand of the 3-2 downshift! I'm absolultey loving driving this Model A around!

Brakes really are better than I was lead to believe. The tires are the weak link it seems to me if the brakes are setup correctly. Basically 4 bicycle tires to stop a car.

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