Circa 1973 new construction home : 4 level split: My father had bought this new and was a rental for fifteen years till the wife and I bought it. The tub faucets were Wal Tec 1st design and have thoroughly wore out. Replaced with Moen. The 4.5 inch tile surrounding the faucet and complete tub/shower will be removed as the "backer board" or whatever was used behind the tile then has now rotted away The tub itself is like it has been sand blasted from abrasive cleaners to remove scale from when the Town of Aylmer was on well water. Bath Fitter has been called, we will see what is said on June 6th. I will try to post pics. I was fortunate to have called the 'Right' plumber, Mark Heath who does Bath Fitter work in my area and he lives 3 doors away!
Anyone experience Bath Fitter?
1st pic is the wound; the house only had shut off's on the toilets when we moved in, now taps/faucets all have them. :) I should have been a Plumber.
Bath fitter comes on June 6th. Will see what they say; our intention is to cover the tub and sides. Without the tile. So , if I have to remove the tile and replace the cement board, that's fine. Been there,done it,scars to prove
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Government is a broker in pillage, and every election is sort of an advance auction sale of stolen goods. HL Mencken. 1919.
"If you want a vision of the future, imagine a boot stamping on a human face - forever." George Orwell 1984
I would like to inform you about plastic hose and sharkbyte fittings.. I just spent the last sveral years renovating my place and I was overjoyed to get away from copper pipes and solder.. I redone all my house with plastic pipe or what ever they call it, and I used the Sharkbyte fittings all through the whole house. I never soldered anything, The hose or tubing goes around corners It's just like running wiring .. I would never go back to copper and solder..This new stuff is so nice to work with, and when you fit everything to-gether and turn on the water you never have to back to fix leaks because there is none This stuff has made it so nice to do your own plumbing..I love this stuff.. I will post a few pictures of mine later. Just got in and I need to feed the dog and get supper going for the wife so I can feed her...
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Almost all PEX used for pipe and tubing is made from high density polyethylene (HDPE). PEX contains cross-linked bonds in the polymer structure, changing the thermoplastic to a thermoset. Cross-linking is accomplished during or after the extrusion of the tubing.
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There is no elevator to success — you have to take the stairs.
nice touch using ball valves instead of the twist gate valves. they are a little more expensive but a lot more easier to use. about the only thing maybe would be blue cold handle and red hot handle. sometime down the road if something comes up and you need one shut off rather quickly there is no guessing sort of thing. the soldering looks neat and tidy. i was on a limb also over copper vs plastic on the supply side of it till i was visiting a brother a year or so back and he was using it for a new bathroom in his house. him being a union plumber for 35 or so yrs and endorsing it was enough for me when or if the time comes i need to think about it again. he says they have been using it in commercial apps for some time now with very little to no problems, much the same as copper if its not done right. folk lore has it the kitchen and the bath are the 2 money rooms in a house for re/sale. guessing here, a complete 1 pc tub/shower surround if doable or a 2 or 3 pc maybe. there are some not bad looking stuff out there compared to yrs ago. i used a i pc corner shower unit for the addition and it was pretty slick compared to tile and grout. another folk lore claims the wife/woman has the most input on buying a house, something like 70 to 80%. the husband/man is mostly concerned with the location and some amenities, ie; the garage, the den or the rec room, the roof and the grounds, etc. apparently if she is happy he is capable of making himself happy with the basics to start with. and last but not least is, if you are planning a 5000.00$ project start your budget at 2500.00$, trust me you will get there lol. good luck rick
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"if you are not the lead dog, the view is all the same"
A little hijacking of your thread.. Like Shagg said, when it comes to house renos the price is always three times more than you thought.. I have spent 30 some years renovating this old stone house we own.. I gutted every room to the stone and started right from the stone wall with all new plumbing, wiring , and a Geothermal water furnace..No plumbing in these pictures but I do have some just can't find them at the moment..but here are a couple of a spare bedroom I just finished last fall..I also hate drywall mudding and sanding ....This house was built in 1853 and I found a fire place in three different rooms.. you can see one in the left corner of picture 2 .. I can't imagine how much wood they would have to cut back in the day to feed three fire places in an old uninsulated stone house ..Renovations can be a huge money pit..
Added..and these would be the finished pictures of that room..
Hey Chuck in the picture that the drywall is being taped I see the receptacle up near the ceiling. Is it located there for convenience because of your excessive height?
no sh!t on the costs like you say chuck. my old girl is 1867 circa and i too was down to the stone on the inside with 2 fireplaces that were gone beyond salvageable. i started reassembly with the roof, 2 floors and a 4ft high sand floor basement. all the stone outside i was looking at inside. it took about a year to completely finish and 6-7 years later a stone addition was added close to doubling down. the steel roof is the addition in this pic with steel now on the old girl. the easiest part is getting started, the hardest part was trying to stay 1/2 close to a budget. lol
you will be ok jr, it's never nothing that can't be fixed. best tip, think hard before you close anything in as you only want to do stuff once sorta thing.
pm sent chuck
-- Edited by shag766 on Friday 27th of May 2016 10:36:53 AM
folk lore has it the kitchen and the bath are the 2 money rooms in a house for re/sale. another folk lore claims the wife/woman has the most input on buying a house, something like 70 to 80%. the husband/man is mostly concerned with the location and some amenities, ie; the garage, the den or the rec room, the roof and the grounds, etc. apparently if she is happy he is capable of making himself happy with the basics to start with. and last but not least is, if you are planning a 5000.00$ project start your budget at 2500.00$, trust me you will get there lol. good luck rick
Bath then kitchen then listing For Sale; then move to the country.
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Government is a broker in pillage, and every election is sort of an advance auction sale of stolen goods. HL Mencken. 1919.
"If you want a vision of the future, imagine a boot stamping on a human face - forever." George Orwell 1984
I agree with Joe on this. That's why I asked if you were coating,covering or replacing the tub. Once the tile are coming off why bother covering the tub,mold,mildew and soap scum. Just replace the tub and the waste and overflow re tile the wall and it will look like new,, actually will be new. It's your home do what you want but I wouldn't have bathfitter cover it up.You had better sit down before they hand you the quote. I've been a plumber for 45 years with bathroom and kitchen reno's at the top of list for the last 10 years. If you are selling it then it might be OK but I don't think you will like the price. Depending which tub you go with they are in the area of $300 and $75 for waste and overflow and a few fittings and a day labor to change it. If you are moving just make it new and shiny.
A woman's perrogitive is to change her mind. No Bath Fitter for now; looks like I am going to change the tub and do the demo/repair. We both like the surround and window finishing/treatment,but the tub is still covered like 33guy said and are not hard to change and I have done this before
A couple years ago we had a water leak at the glue joint at the tub drain; there is an 18" overhang on the front and rear of this 4 split , the drain photo explains it .Somehow the wall calculations place the drain on a floor joist!!! I believe I will have to remove the outside cover again to do the tub change. It's because of crap like this, I want to M O V E !!
if i remember right you can notch a floor joist then re/enforce it and use 2 45's to go down. anything horizontal with a tub i don't think is a good thing with the hair and stuff. just thinking out loud is all.
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"if you are not the lead dog, the view is all the same"
the floor joist is already compromised a real plumber would have done that differently . Good example of poor building inspection too.
Just my opinion
TMJ
This is a POL Construction home from 1973,there are two others on my street built at the same time, these were the 1st ones built in Aylmer. I am certain Parklane in Stthomas has heard of them. No longer in business now.There are too many of these 'little' things
like a 33 3/4 front door but 28" pocket doors in the kitchen;a 36" cavity for a huge fridge but can't get it in without making the pocket door bigger. 28" bath door when
all others are 32". I can go on, more reason to list/sell & move
And she has changed her mind again.
junior
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Government is a broker in pillage, and every election is sort of an advance auction sale of stolen goods. HL Mencken. 1919.
"If you want a vision of the future, imagine a boot stamping on a human face - forever." George Orwell 1984
You best get your butt crackin boy.. At the rate she who must be obeyed keeps changing her mind the budget is just waiting to grow, that's what happens with Reno's a change of plans and finding the stuff you couldn't count on to be ok..
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There is no elevator to success — you have to take the stairs.
It will be BathFiter; So I am removing all tile and sheet rock (16"x48" this is a PLASTER house) to the studs and new blue drywall goes in. She has picked out a vanity,Canadian made, and flooring. BathFiter will do the tub and shower surround while I Watch
It will be BathFiter; So I am removing all tile and sheet rock (16"x48" this is a PLASTER house) to the studs and new blue drywall goes in. She has picked out a vanity,Canadian made, and flooring. BathFiter will do the tub and shower surround while I Watch
I expected worse,buts it's all good.
thinking out loud on this but i would maybe put a cheater vent in the drain line closer to the trap than the vent pipe while its apart. might help the sink drain faster and its open now sorta thing. i can't see how that line is vented. if there is another bathroom a floor up i probably wouldn't maybe if it's on the same 3" drain line though. 2 cents
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"if you are not the lead dog, the view is all the same"
If the drain is slow I would look at the line first. Might be full of gunk, soap and hair from over the years. The slope on the pipe has to be about 1/4" per foot. To much and to little will both cause problems. The vent has to be within 5 ft. of the drain. That looks good from here. The 3" stack should also be the vent.
For the green drywall, that stuff is moisture resistant only so good for high humidity areas only. There is a difference between moisture resistant and water proof. But the mud you use is not so not a lot of benefit to using it. At one time it was the thing to use behind tile but now with better products it is not used or should not be used. On walls outside the tub in most bathrooms regular drywall is fine. Your call here though, your money.
It will be BathFiter; So I am removing all tile and sheet rock (16"x48" this is a PLASTER house) to the studs and new blue drywall goes in. She has picked out a vanity,Canadian made, and flooring. BathFiter will do the tub and shower surround while I Watch
I expected worse,buts it's all good.
thinking out loud on this but i would maybe put a cheater vent in the drain line closer to the trap than the vent pipe while its apart. might help the sink drain faster and its open now sorta thing. i can't see how that line is vented. if there is another bathroom a floor up i probably wouldn't maybe if it's on the same 3" drain line though. 2 cents
Rick,are you saying I should have a vent closer to the trap, running up the wall between the studs?
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Government is a broker in pillage, and every election is sort of an advance auction sale of stolen goods. HL Mencken. 1919.
"If you want a vision of the future, imagine a boot stamping on a human face - forever." George Orwell 1984
If the drain is slow I would look at the line first. Might be full of gunk, soap and hair from over the years. The slope on the pipe has to be about 1/4" per foot. To much and to little will both cause problems. The vent has to be within 5 ft. of the drain. That looks good from here. The 3" stack should also be the vent. For the green drywall, that stuff is moisture resistant only so good for high humidity areas only. There is a difference between moisture resistant and water proof. But the mud you use is not so not a lot of benefit to using it. At one time it was the thing to use behind tile but now with better products it is not used or should not be used. On walls outside the tub in most bathrooms regular drywall is fine. Your call here though, your money.
Marten
your right marten on cleaning the pipe now that its open and check the fall. i am not saying it isn't legal but it's not that far off the 5ft mark with 16 or 18" centers and all it would be is help more or less. i was surprised to hear that the vent is allowed now in certain uses as if i remember right they were taboo anywhere, i think, maybe.
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"if you are not the lead dog, the view is all the same"
It will be BathFiter; So I am removing all tile and sheet rock (16"x48" this is a PLASTER house) to the studs and new blue drywall goes in. She has picked out a vanity,Canadian made, and flooring. BathFiter will do the tub and shower surround while I Watch
I expected worse,buts it's all good.
thinking out loud on this but i would maybe put a cheater vent in the drain line closer to the trap than the vent pipe while its apart. might help the sink drain faster and its open now sorta thing. i can't see how that line is vented. if there is another bathroom a floor up i probably wouldn't maybe if it's on the same 3" drain line though. 2 cents
Rick,are you saying I should have a vent closer to the trap, running up the wall between the studs?
i don't know what i am saying now is, lol. but if it was mine i would probably put one in just to give it a hand if it is getting out to the 4ft plus mark now that it is open. the more air the better i think and only if you are staying there for a bit. marten is right about the clean line and the fall though for sure. the bathroom sink will be the first to slow up due to what goes down it. the faster the water runs the less that gets left behind sort of thingy.
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"if you are not the lead dog, the view is all the same"
Thats looking first class there John.. Great choice on the colors and flooring It looks very nice..your doing a bang up job on that bathroom-reno..makes a huge difference..
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So here it is; all that's left is b boards and cut the toilet studs down. The window treatment is what sold me. My installer has 12 + years as a plumber who did an excellent job. And he wanted to buy my Chevy II. The pics do not do the job justice; you have to see it. Junior
-- Edited by Junior on Tuesday 9th of August 2016 06:32:56 PM
I think it looks absolutely great.. The trim looks great and low to no maintenance, the color works great with your sink and floor.. Makes a huge difference in that room. Moma happy? Turned really nice.. good Job..
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There is no elevator to success — you have to take the stairs.
I do too; he even let me help!!! 
