tmj i am going to take a run at this for you first you need to remove thee pan and then remove the rear main cap and bolts you will need to crack an loosen all remaining main cap bolts to just to let the crank move away to get the seal to come out once you have it out clean very well will be needed in that area for the new seal to make contact Please be careful reinstalling the seal as not to make it up try to offset the seal just a little it helps with sealing the seam a little silicone on the edge of each end will seal the ends then reinstall all the cap and bolts and re-torque them per torque specs and then a new pan set and you should be in business
thanks bob
That pretty much covers it . If its the rubber split seal not the rope , fel pro doesn't recommend putting sealer on the ends but says a bit in the cap (static holder) is ok . I also like to bring the seal past the horizontal seam in the cap so the cap seam and the seal seam are not in line. Just did a 235 last week chev should of named them the blue cloud .
Unless the torque spec specifiy's wet and with what lube it should be considered dry . What lube you use can make a huge difference on the final setting .
Unless the torque spec specifiy's wet and with what lube it should be considered dry . What lube you use can make a huge difference on the final setting .
It looks like I'm going to take out one at a time and oil them>>>>>http://boxwrench.net/specs/ford_289_302-5.0.htm
Thanks for your help
TMJ
Bolts or Parts
Lube or Sealer
Torque to:
Main Caps
Engine Oil
70 ft-lbs.
Outer Main Cap Bolts
Engine
40 ft-lbs.
Warning!!!
If you are using ARP bolts, you MUST use their specs. Click Here!