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Post Info TOPIC: Rear Main Seal


Komoka On, Board recruiter, Good will embassador Rod-side Member

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Rear Main Seal
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YA HOO first post in the tech talk section!!!

Ok I'm over that now..

What kind of a job is it to change the rear main seal on a ford 302 (1968 block)?

I'm going to pull it out in a week or so just to reseal everything so I don't need to carry a LARGE bag of kitty litter with me.

Thanks

TMJ



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Chatham, ON Member

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tmj i am going to take a run at this for you first you need to remove thee pan and then remove the rear main cap and bolts you will need to crack an loosen all remaining main cap bolts to just to let the crank move away to get the seal to come out once you have it out clean very well will be needed in that area for the new seal to make contact Please be careful reinstalling the seal as not to make it up try to offset the seal just a little it helps with sealing the seam a little silicone on the edge of each end will seal the ends then reinstall all the cap and bolts and re-torque them per torque specs and then a new pan set and you should be in business
thanks bob

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Hydraulic Service Dundas On

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That pretty much covers it . If its the rubber split seal not the rope , fel pro doesn't recommend putting sealer on the ends but says a bit in the cap (static holder) is ok . I also like to bring the seal past the horizontal seam in the cap so the cap seam and the seal seam are not in line. Just did a 235 last week chev should of named them the blue cloud .



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Komoka On, Board recruiter, Good will embassador Rod-side Member

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thanks for the help guys. Should I pull the main bolts right out to re-lube them or just torque them back down?

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Hydraulic Service Dundas On

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Unless the torque spec specifiy's wet and with what lube it should be considered dry . What lube you use can make a huge difference on the final setting .



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Komoka On, Board recruiter, Good will embassador Rod-side Member

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Slim wrote:

Unless the torque spec specifiy's wet and with what lube it should be considered dry . What lube you use can make a huge difference on the final setting .


 It looks like I'm going to take out one at a time and oil them>>>>>http://boxwrench.net/specs/ford_289_302-5.0.htm

Thanks for your help

TMJ

Bolts or PartsLube or SealerTorque to:
Main CapsEngine Oil70 ft-lbs.
Outer Main Cap BoltsEngine40 ft-lbs.
Warning!!!    

 

If you are using ARP bolts, you MUST use
their specs.  Click Here!

Connecting Rod    260, 289, 302

                 *289HP and Boss 302

Engine Oil

25 ft-lbs.

*45 ft-lbs.

Cylinder Heads

Engine oil

(blind hole)

Sealer

(water jacket)

70 ft-lbs.

Rocker ArmsEngine Oil20 ft-lbs.
Oil PumpEngine Oil25 ft-lbs.
Oil PanEngine Oil15 ft-lbs.
Camshaft Thrust PlateThread Locker10 ft-lbs.
Cam Bolt (upper gear)Thread Locker40 ft-lbs.
Front CoverEngine Oil20 ft-lbs.

Intake Manifold

(Cast Iron Heads)

Non- Hardening Sealer25 ft-lbs.
Valve CoverEngine Oil10 ft-lbs.

Flexplate (Automatic)

Flywheel (Clutch)

Thread Locker85 ft-lbs.


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Chatham, ON Member

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tmj just so you are a were stock bolts will torque with just oil on them all
thank bob

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