I am thinking about installing a after market fan shroud in the '64 Ford, has anyone had any issues with the install, or with the after market shrouds at all once installed,..?? I am just a little leery of those nylon straps ( I have both round and flat ) and especially shoving them through a 4 core rad for one thing, and do they hold up once installed,..?? The shroud that I have is not that heavy. Any info / advice would be greatly appreciated, Thank You.
Should be bolt holes on both sides of the core on the rad mount.
Have used the nyion ties thru the rad core as wel with no problems for electric fan . Had an original.shroud off a 64 ford parklane 390 car .May still have it around .
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It' a good thing we dont get as much goverment as we pay for !!!
Thank You 33 guy,... the shroud that I have is a after market, and it requires the straps that go through the rad, it has a half moon brace at the top so can't widen it any at all to reach the rad support bolt holes. Just curios if there is a special way to insert those straps through the rad,... just shove them through (easy ),..?? or should the webs be opened up somehow before inserting them,.. ??
My fan has been attached with plastic for 10 years on the Cutlass. Never a problem. They make a special plastic stick that goes through the rad for attaching the rad. I would try to source these.
The picture you posted is a guard not a shroud won't help with cooling at all . For a shroud to work you will need a fairly decent seal against the rad and the fan blade set right in the opening. The guard in the picture looks like bolts with rubber stand offs They supply wing nuts so you don't crank the hell out of them and crush the rad. closed cell foam or wether stripping would be a better choice on the working side for a shroud not sticking your hand in the fan would be a better choice for the guard .
Do it either way. Better to shove plastic thru than steel though.
I've used them for something before without issue.
Thank you pugsy. I would never attempt to run a metal object through the webbing, was wondering if there was some sort of "specialty tool " that was available for this procedure. After checking the nylon straps out a little closer I feel a bit more comfortable with using them, thanks again.
Thank You wuga, I have both types of the nylon mounting components, the flat straps, and the round type with the screw like threads on them. The round ones are much more rigid.
The picture you posted is a guard not a shroud won't help with cooling at all . For a shroud to work you will need a fairly decent seal against the rad and the fan blade set right in the opening. The guard in the picture looks like bolts with rubber stand offs They supply wing nuts so you don't crank the hell out of them and crush the rad. closed cell foam or wether stripping would be a better choice on the working side for a shroud not sticking your hand in the fan would be a better choice for the guard .
Slim, are you referring to the photo that wuga posted or the ( supposedly fan shroud ) photo that I posted,..?? Jegs advertise the ones in the photo that I posted, as being " Universal Fan Shrouds " . I fully agree with you that there needs to be a good seal on the working side of the component, and was going to use a material that I have here that we use for aircraft windshield installations, however, if this thing isn't going to work as a shroud, it is going to become a wall hanger real quick. I have never had any issues with the '64 heating up, ( runs steady @ mid 180's cruise or city / town driving ) except for one hot muggy evening last season when I got into city traffic, and the guage crawled up to slightly over the 200 mark, but it never overheated or attempted to boil over. I assumed that this relic pos that I bought might help a bit more with the cooling in slow pace traffic. Thanks for the heads up.
Not a 390 engine 33 guy, it has a new, full roller, 351 Windsor, crate engine, ( what they call " the new Sportsman "- M6010 - B351 Ford Racing block ), aluminum heads, air-gap intake, dual feed Holley, 8 quart oil pan, etc. and the rad is a new 4 core ( non aluminum / heavier than hell ) and it has a steel 5 blade fan. The entire drive train, engine, tranny,& rear gears has less than 1800 miles total on it. Seriously thinking of ordering up a set of new rear gears, as the present gears are a 4 11:1 posi trac unit, ( 9" ) and if the speedo is reading true, at 80K per hour, the engine is running at around 3200 RPM. I have no intentions of ever racing the car, nor did the guy that had it built.
-- Edited by cheyenne on Saturday 10th of March 2018 05:28:22 PM
i was referring to the picture you posted. A shroud will funnel the full surface of the rad to the fan the blade should be about half way into the opening with minimal clearance to the sides for it to work right.
i was referring to the picture you posted. A shroud will funnel the full surface of the rad to the fan the blade should be about half way into the opening with minimal clearance to the sides for it to work right.
OK, thanks Slim, maybe I'll just leave well enough alone and mount this thing back on the wall.
Km per hour and rpm range sound about right , what transmission is in the car??
It has a fresh rebuilt C-6 Auto, with a shift kit installed. It seems strange when cruising at highway speed, given the RPM's,.. the engine isn't labouring any whatsoever, and this thing has a fairly lumpy cam in it.
I am a firm believer in installing a properly fitted shroud. It should extend just to or slightly beyond the fan blade with about a 1/2" of clearance to draw as much air as possible but have room to disperse it. Another thing, air drawn in must be able to exit the engine compartment. Many engine compartments don't facilitate this very well. I removed the flaps over the control arms. My Cutlass historically had a cooling problem from the factory. With the installation of a good shroud and creating a path for air to exit, my problems were resolved. If you are going to the trouble of installing a shroud, get one that fits both the shape of the rad and the size of the fan. Also, you can get a full shroud with a good 3200 cfm electric fan fitted that will do a great job. I don't think anything is more frustrating then a cooling problem.
I am a firm believer in installing a properly fitted shroud. It should extend just to or slightly beyond the fan blade with about a 1/2" of clearance to draw as much air as possible but have room to disperse it. Another thing, air drawn in must be able to exit the engine compartment. Many engine compartments don't facilitate this very well. I removed the flaps over the control arms. My Cutlass historically had a cooling problem from the factory. With the installation of a good shroud and creating a path for air to exit, my problems were resolved. If you are going to the trouble of installing a shroud, get one that fits both the shape of the rad and the size of the fan. Also, you can get a full shroud with a good 3200 cfm electric fan fitted that will do a great job. I don't think anything is more frustrating then a cooling problem.
Warren
i agree about having to be able to flow through warren, i have seen that issue a couple of times. the last time was a early to mid 40's coupe with a high power small block over in rossmore owned by the butcher shop owner at the time. he spent a lot of money on it for a fix and ended up cutting louvers in the side's of the hood to fix it proper. my guess was such a hot engine with headers in a relatively small motor compartment but that wouldn't be an issue with the galaxie. i am probably off track with this but that 1/2-3/4 shroud in the pic's is probably more of a protector than anything as the air has an easy out through the gap in the bottom of it being the least path of resistance and not taking much engine heat with it. just maybe a properly fitted and installed full shroud might do the trick as you won't get a much bigger engine compartment than that galaxie has, maybe.
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"if you are not the lead dog, the view is all the same"
Absolutely correct wuga,.. there is lots of room in the engine bay of the '64 for the air to come and go. The heating issue with this car isn't an ongoing thing, it was just that one instance over in London in heavy traffic on a super hot evening that the temp guage went a tad past 200 deg., it normally runs constant at around the mid 180's highway or city. I just thought that maybe a shroud would lessen the chance of it ever happening again.
All good idea's and suggestions but don't overlook your pulley ratio's, slowing the water pump down for the sake of horsepower can come back to bite you when your sitting in traffic for an extended time.
All good idea's and suggestions but don't overlook your pulley ratio's, slowing the water pump down for the sake of horsepower can come back to bite you when your sitting in traffic for an extended time.
i actually wouldn't of even thought of that if i was in a predicament like his, especially when it is obviously a periodic problem and not a constant. good point and taken.
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"if you are not the lead dog, the view is all the same"
I had some cooling issues with both the Falcon and the Comet ( as does anyone who builds one with a V8). They're both warmed over 302's, C4 auto's.
On the Falcon I re-purposed a shroud I removed from a slant 6 Valiant. Almost a straight fit, just required a little trimming here and there. It attaches to the same 4 mounting bolts as the rad. Dropped highway temps from 220 to 180's and no heat-creep in town.
I played around a bit with water pump pulleys and thermostat's on the Comet. While it doesn't currently have a shroud it will this summer. I'll be hitting the wrecking yard for a suitable donor I can make fit.
