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Post Info TOPIC: Brake Service Lube


Etobicoke On Rod-side Member

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Brake Service Lube
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What are you guys using to lube parts of the brake caliper and back of pads?

 

I need to do the brakes on my wife's Mazda3 and before I start would like to have everything on hand.

 

I have read that synthetic will take higher heat than dino grease and is safer on rubber components.



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58 Chevrolet Delray



St.Marys Ont -Rod Side Member

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I would be surprised if most of us did not use anti seize (copper) on the slides of the calliper may be not on the pads as there is usually a package of lub in side the box with the pads

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Hensall Ont Member

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I use Loctite Copper Plus on nearly all metal to metal contact where I expect corrosion/rust - I gave up on the silver stuff a few years ago due serious reactions with dissimilar metals still welding themselves together ie: (aluminum wheels to machined hubs)
Larry(Grumpy 50)

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Etobicoke On Rod-side Member

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ThanX

I'll have to get me some copper, I have the silver one but have never encountered any problems on my daily's with alloy wheels.



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58 Chevrolet Delray



"Fatchuk" Rod-side member Board administration & clean up guy

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Well we all have a different idea on this .. After working in this trade for more than forty years and in my area of the world.. I use red RTV on the back of the pads to eliminate brake squeal from high pitched vibration.. On the pins and slides after I remove everything and clean all the pins and file the slides . I use wheel bearing grease for a lube on the pins and slides always with new pad retainers.. I have been doing it that way for years with great success.. I am not advocating that anybody else do what I do .. I have never had a comeback for doing this .. I am a fanatic for doing the job right. Other peoples lives depend on your car being able to stop .. Brakes are no place to to practice your mechanical ambitions.. Double check every bolt you install and no lube except a dab of lock-tite on the bolts that secure the caliper to the mounting frame.. No Antisieze or lube of any kind on those bolts..and always torque the bolts & wheels to manufacturers specs.  you should always replace rotors with new pads..That is the correct way to do this service..If the pins are very rusty they should be replaced not just spun on a wire wheel. That will make sure they will rusted solid next time They have a special finish on them and if you remove it they WILL rust solid.

I have seen the results of people who do that .. If those bolts come out and they will if you lube them. It will take that nice aluminum wheel and break it when that vehicle is in the ditch or has caused a bad accident.. I have personally been involved in a couple of these to determine the cause of the failure.. missing one or more bolts that secure the caliper to frame mounting..

Be smart and be careful brakes are not something to fool around with..confuse

 

You did ask..smile



-- Edited by admin on Tuesday 20th of December 2016 07:06:37 PM



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Etobicoke On Rod-side Member

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Good advice Chuk.. On the pins

I do have a bottle of blue loc-tite for the mounting bolts. I'm a bit anal when it comes to using a torque wrench.

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58 Chevrolet Delray



St.Thomas Ont Member

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Brake Lube - ceramic/synthetic technology, is the new kid on the block.

The following is a top performer, in restoring brake caliper pin function, etc.

/Larry

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

IGRALUB LUBRICANTS  
http://www.autosphere.ca/carcarebusiness/mechanical-news/2014/11/11/igralub-lubricants-cermacace-carbonlub-bss/ 


CermacAce, CarbonLub and BSS are new products for brake installation and maintenance. (Photo: Jil McIntosh)
It’s tempting to think that one brake lube product is the same as the next, but not all formulations are the same.

Three products new to the Canadian marketplace—CeramAce, CaronLub, and BSS Brake Silencer Spray—provide superior results due to their formulas, according to their Canadian distributor Kang Rich International. The new products were on display at the AAPEX aftermarket show in Las Vegas.

BSS Brake Silencer Spray has solid lubricant fractions that press into the metal surfaces when the brakes are activated, filling any minute depressions and increasing braking power by almost nine percent, while extending the life of the rotor and pad. It prevents squealing, dissipates heat, and is temperature-resistant from -100C to plus 1300C. It also helps to prevent the formation of brake dust.

CeramAce is a high-temperature fitting and release anti-seize paste containing more than 30 percent solid ceramic base.

Waterproof and resistant to salt water, acids and alkalis, the paste protects against corrosion and does not get gummy.

CarbonLub is an anti-seize paste for extreme high-heat and high-pressure applications, providing long-term protection against corrosion and seizure with its anti-oxidation properties. It’s specially formulated for heavy-duty applications including trucks, semis, trailers, and construction equipment, and parts can be easily dismantled even after years of use.

All of the products are Swiss formulations, and are made in Switzerland and Canada. For information on suppliers, visit www.Kangrich.com.

BrakeLubCeram.jpg



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http://lightspeedmetaldesign.com/

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I've thousands of brakes jobs and services over the years. The best stuff I found was Toyota disc brake grease. Comes in a small tube, on Amazon it's $100 tube (ouch) part#(08887-80609)
It was the only stuff I ever used that never washed off in the rain and snow, every other anitseize I used did.
I still have about 1/2 tube left


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member

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I agree with Chuk on this one, I have many years of servicing brakes and good old wheel bearing grease on cleaned up parts is the way to go.

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Niagara Falls Member

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X2.   I was in the trade from 63- 2003 and was taught by a seasoned tech that wheel bearing grease is best to be used for brake lube and I have used it ever since with no problems.

I agree with Chuk on this one, I have many years of servicing brakes and good old wheel bearing grease on cleaned up parts is the way to go.


 



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