I am installing a FiTeck 30003 go street EFI in my 34 which has a 1986 302 mustang engine in it.My problem is that I put in a electronic ignition in it what it has to have .They say that I must remove the resister out of the coil line as it does not supply the 12 volts that the coil and distributor now needs.The resister is above what I think is the regulator and the led out of the regulator is 11.7 through the resister to the coil is 11.7. Should I run a new line for the distributor and coil from the key at 12v and leave every thing else the same.This is what is on the regulator.
Homer,
The regulator is for the alternator RIGHT? I wired key on 12v direct to the pos. side of the coil. BUT there's always a BUT right….they also say you have to have 12v while cranking which is why I plugged it into the pos. side of the coil so the relay voltage would cover the voltage requirements WHILE cranking
rochie I had a Rons wiring do the 34 back in 84 and I think that is my alternator regulator. I'am thinking of going to the key for coil and the white wire is for cranking and I would just disconnect the wire from the regulator that is for the coil.
33 guy thanks that is what I need to know, But the wire is feed from the regulator to the resistor.Would it be ok to leave the regulator hooked up to every thing else and remove that wire and resistor for the coil and then run a new line from the key to the coil
Yep the system needs 12v all the time. I take it you're not letting the computer control your timing. I did and it makes a hell of a difference. But you have to be able to lock the distributor down. I bought a new 2 wire distributor to use.
Here's some stuff you might find interesting. I got it from a buddy that installed Fitech and had a couple of problems. This doesn't come without a conversation with the tech dept.
Resetting to a stock calibration:
From the main menu go to the very bottom and select Write Cal To ECU. Once in this menu scroll down to the second to last selection, it should say Default v8 T195. Once on this file select it and it will download to 100 percent. After this is done it will revert to the main menu. Now go to Go EFI Initial Setup, then Engine Setup, now input all of the parameters that are needed for your application, making sure to save each one individually.
After you have entered your information and saved it go up and select Dash Board. Once in dashboard turn the ignition key off and wait for all the data to black out. Once this happens turn the ignition key to the on positon and start the car.
IAC Steps:
Turn the driver’s side throttle adjustment screw IN (clockwise) half a turn to start with, with that done turn the key on and go to dashboard and find TPS and make sure it reads zero. If not, then shut the key off and wait for the numbers to go black then turn the key on again. Once that reads zero start the vehicle and find IAC Steps on dashboard. This number needs to be within 3-10 at warm idle. If the number reads zero then slowly turn the screw OUT (counter clockwise) until the IAC steps reads between 3-10. If the number is above 10 then shut the vehicle off and turn the screw IN as stated above and repeat the process until the IAC steps are between 3-10.
Cranking fuel adjustments:
With the key on go to the Go EFI Tuning menu, find Crank and Warm up. There you will see three cranking fuel selections. For cold starts add or subtract fuel from Crank fuel 65f, for hot starts add or subtract fuel from crank fuel 170f. Changing these settings should help with your start up issues along with setting the IAC. A good starting point is to change the settings in intervals of 10 to find which way you need to adjust the system to work better.
Accel pump/ Fast Accel adjustment:
If the system is having a hesitation or bogging issue, and you IAC steps are between 3-10 at warm idle, then your next step would be to adjust the accel pump function to increase or decrease the fuel added on acceleration. To start with turn the key to the on position and then find Go EFI Tuning on the main menu and press enter. Then find Accel pump and press enter. You will see a menu with multiple different settings, you need to focus on the Accel pumps (20f, 65f, 170f) and Fast Accel (20f, 65f, 170f). These setting adjust how much fuel, at varying temperatures, the system injects when you accelerate. Accel pump is used for any normal throttle input, Fast Accel is for any fast throttle inputs or Wide Open Throttle.
Hesitation: If the vehicle has a hesitation (when you step on the throttle and the engine does hangs and/ or almost dies and then suddenly take off) this normally is a lack of fuel so you would fix this by increasing the Accel Pump (for normal throttle input hesitations) or Fast Accel (for fast throttle or WOT inputs). You would make changes starting in increments of 10, to the temp range that you are finding the issue to reside in.
Bogging/engine loads up/slow to respond: If the vehicle is bogging (when you step on the throttle and the engine is slower/sluggish to come up to a higher rpm) this is normally caused by over fueling. To fix this you would need to reduce the amount of fuel it is injecting as an accel pump shot. To do this this decrease the Accel Pump (for normal throttle input hesitations) or Fast Accel (for fast throttle or WOT inputs). You would make changes starting in increments of 10, to the temp range that you are finding the issue to reside in.
Choosing a cam selection:
Cam selection 15Hg or above, Cam 2 is for 10Hg to 15hg, Cam 3 is 8Hg15Hg or above, Cam 2 is for 10Hg to 15hg, Cam 3 is 8Hg to 10Hg, Cam 4 is 8Hg to 6Hg. These are estimates and you may need to switch between them if the vacuum load is between two different cam settings to get the engine to run better for your application.Idle Return:
If the engine is not returning to idle quick enough for your liking or is dropping too quickly and killing the engine then you may need to adjust the rate at which the injection system comes to an idle. To do so you need to go to Go EFI Tuning, then find and select Idle Control. Once in this menu you will see several settings, the only one we are going to work with is Decel open IAC. This number should be at zero as a base setting, by going negative you are reducing the amount of time it takes to return to Idle, and by going positive you are increasing the time it takes. Normal procedure of adjustment is to add or subtract 10 to start with and then adjust it to your liking or what the engine needs. Then once the setting is input save it to the ecu by pushing the joystick IN, the handheld will show Send To ECU Successful. Once this is done make sure to go back to the dashboard and turn the key off until the numbers clear out on the value side. This shows that the system has saved.
These are a basic overview of the most common setup questions, if you have any other questions please let me know. -Cody
