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Post Info TOPIC: Rear quarter/wheel well replacement


Richmond Ont Carpenter/Renovations

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Rear quarter/wheel well replacement
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Southpaw, my son, has his '86 Camaro and the rear quarters are corroded around the wheels.  So I am taking a night course in automotive restoration and now it has me thinking I could replace them myself.  I spent some time (actually two hours)  this past week talking to TC (Terry) from this forum and with no offence to him thought I would ask here as well. Because you asked, not to discount Terry as he has given me some great ideas and advise.  What is the best way to replace these?  All new to me but now have some basic understanding, I think.  So step by step, tools required, etc.  Jamie has told me I could do this for him so may tackle it over the winter, let him drive it for the summer.



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Bodywork and refinishing are just as much of a refined technical process, as it is an art form. I've done bodywork for a few years... trained at Niagara College... and worked at a Mercedes dealership. I went back to IT(computers) because I couldn't support a family and mortgage on minimum wage as an apprentice for 3 years!

Some advice...

Don't cut corners. What i mean is...do things properly, and use good quality products. Take your time!

To properly treat rust(if you need to...) is to cut it out, and replace it with new metal.

Replacing quarter panels is a job not suited for a novice. If you don't know anyone that lives close, that can come by to assist you in the process, then take in all the youtube videos you can handle and go slow and methodical. If you don't know how to weld, then gluing the panel may be an option for you.

Post a few pics of the Camaro so we can have a look.

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St.Thomas Ont Member

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1986 CHEVY CAMARO QUARTER PANELS
https://www.carid.com/1986-chevy-camaro-quarter-panels/

^^ Good rear 1/4 repops are available / don't know if the inner wheel wells are ??

3M PANEL BONDING ADHESIVE 200ml: 08115
Two-part epoxy used to bond steel, aluminum, SMC, and FRP (traditional fiberglass). The primary use is to replace quarter panels, roofs, box sides, van sides, utility vehicle sides and door skins.For use on outer body panels only. Not for use on structural components such as pillars, frame rails, core supports, or rocker panels (on unibody vehicles). Cures on demand with addition of heat. Glass beads work as built-in spacers for optimum bond line thickness. Product has corrosion inhibiting ability. Has excellent shelf life, either opened or unopened. Using this product

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?s=d72fbd285d1ccd07c705851c09c208e3&t=39036&page=2
C&P...panel bonding will work on almost any metal to metal surface,but....it's only as strong as your mating surfaces.any corrosion,sealer,primer,paint e-coat(that black or pale green coating on new panels),etc has to be removed.there can be NO CONTAMINANT!.grinding with 36-40 grit discs will give the adhesive something to bite into.the one downfall is you must secure the part in place while it cures.this is usually done with several self-tapping screws which means going over the repair again to plug these holes later.the good news is you gain a very strong repair which is also "seam sealed" at the same time.picture the wheel arch area of your car.weld it and it may leak between the wheelhouse and the 1/4 outer skin.bond it and it won't leak ever.i would not use it on a structural repair though.don't glue in your frame sections,suspension mounts,etc.



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