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Post Info TOPIC: welding questions


Kemptville Ont Carpenter/Renovations

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So now I have a couple of welding questions.  In the first picture I have two pieces of 16 ga overlapping each other.  Top piece is primed and the lower one is not.  What I want to do is butt them together to make one smooth part.  I know I have to cut one of them but wonder if there is video or is someone can give me some step by step instructions on how to do this with out making a mess.  Should there be a gap to weld or tight together?  With every thing else I have had extra steel to try but the side panels and the rear roll pan are to pricy to have extras of.   Should I/do I need a backing plate?  Currently if you look the roll pan part has small return edges on it.  They can stay to keep it more rigid if required.  If so how much should I leave from the edge?

In the second picture the plan here is to have the channel flush with the back of the box.  So how do I weld this up with out making a mess of things.  Both are 16 ga as well.  The plan right now on the other side of the channel is to tack it only and cover the joint with seam sealer.  But here there is nothing to adhere the caulking to as it will be flush.  The finished look is to be one that looks like a continues piece going 90 degrees around the outside of the box.

Please remember this is all new to me so feed me as much info as possible.  utube search engine and I are not getting along as I cannot find what I need to do this.IMG_20170214_193723.jpg

IMG_20170214_193753.jpg 



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Courtice On Rod-Side Member Pin Striper

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Can't answer your questions - but awesome that you're building your own box!

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Kemptville Ont Carpenter/Renovations

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Thanks, not much to show but once I have a story to tell I will update the build. Lots of parts started, nothing done. But lots of fun.
Thanks Beans

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St.Thomas On Rod-side member

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Marten, go to welding tips and tricks.com You can get a short video every week on welding stick, mig, tig etc. Very informative.

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Tin basher Metal shaping guy

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The key to welding sheet metal is to get good penetration.
You can practice on some scrap metal. Go and get some strips from somewhere before you attempt this.
You will have good penetration when there are walnuts bleeding thru the back side.
You can then grind the proud and walnuts off without worry of the metal cracking as the whole thickness has melted together.

For butt welds, get the fit tight with no gaps. It's crucial for the two pieces to be flush before you tack them together. If they are not, grind the proud off your tacks and carefully tap with a hammer on dolly to get them flush before welding.


Be careful, penetration is good, but too much means you've over heated it and will warp the panels from the shrinkage that occurs when it cools off.

For butt welds, you can get the warp out with hammer on dolly on the welds after you've ground off the proud. You may be tempted to strike somewhere other than the weld because there is a hump off to the side but don't do it.

One final thing.............practice!
Do some corner welds, T welds, and butt welds.




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St.Thomas Ont Member

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Here is a good site, when it comes to welding sheet metal...using Oxy/Acet, Mig or Tig.
Welding Tips: www.hotrodders.com/forum/patch-panel-procedure-376298.html

Your 16 gauge Channel would be easy to fusion weld, with either braze or solder rod.

Even CAMI uses silver solder, filling lead seam & making bondo-less repairs.
- and sandblast or wire wheel the flux off, to insure proper bonding of Epoxy primer  http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/ 

Silverado truck box hinge repair:
I chose Oxy/Acet brazing on 16g fabricated panel joining thin-rusted-out steel (prone to blowing Mig holes),

because it was easy for my skill level & lots strong enough.  A small clean tip & perfectly clean joint...is ideal.

 

 



-- Edited by Beaumont67SD on Friday 17th of February 2017 11:16:09 PM

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Tin basher Metal shaping guy

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OP: What welding method do you have?

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Kemptville Ont Carpenter/Renovations

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I have a small mig welder. Hobart 140 is the model.

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Tin basher Metal shaping guy

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Marten wrote:

I have a small mig welder. Hobart 140 is the model.


 That inside corner is not something you can MIG all the way up. Polishing out the lumps would be a pain.

It would probably warp the bed side as well, beyond repair.

Are the stake pockets attached yet? You could attach an L angle inside and then plug weld from inside the box.

 

Just make sure that the sheets are dead flush before pulling the trigger to tack.

MIG welds are more brittle than TIG or gas so you don't want to knock them too much.

Skip around and blast a couple of tacks in one spot at a time.

It will help from it getting too hot. The cooling off process is what causes distortion, so the less it gets hot, the less distortion.

Oh yeah, do some practice bits....or did I say that already?



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Kemptville Ont Carpenter/Renovations

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Thanks guys, I will try this out and see what happens. Pugsy, for the stake pockets I was thinking of tacking them on and then caulking them with seam sealer. Hopefully keeping the tacks small enough to be covered.

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Tin basher Metal shaping guy

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Marten wrote:

Thanks guys, I will try this out and see what happens. Pugsy, for the stake pockets I was thinking of tacking them on and then caulking them with seam sealer. Hopefully keeping the tacks small enough to be covered.


 Use some kind of plastic tool with a 45° notch to spread a nice line. (You could use the wife's credit card for this.)

Make sure the notch is higher than the biggest tack.



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Komoka On, Board recruiter, Good will embassador Rod-side Member

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If it was mine and those stake pockets are not structural I would glue them on with the two part glue for body panels. Quarter panels get glued on with this stuff. I glued a roof skin on a 30's ford with no problems. It takes a gun similar to a caulking gun but it mixes right in the nosil of the gun. Just another option 

TMJ 



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Wellesley, on Member

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Hey Marten, we've spoke about your box.  What you've done so far looks really great.   You are going to have such a great time with that truck when you're done, cuz you did yourself.  Good on you and keep it up...

 

Interesting look at stitch welds.  Worth a watch,  

 

And like every one else has already stated,  practice practice practice...

 

 

 

 



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Mississauga On Rod-side Member Ford guy

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toomuchjunk wrote:

If it was mine and those stake pockets are not structural I would glue them on with the two part glue for body panels. Quarter panels get glued on with this stuff. I glued a roof skin on a 30's ford with no problems. It takes a gun similar to a caulking gun but it mixes right in the nosil of the gun. Just another option 

TMJ 


          Some really good advice tmj  , if I were doing mine again I wouldn't weld them on . The 2 part glue

           is the cats ass !!!!   Available in all different drying times as well, and acts as a sealer as well    



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